Banská Bystrica – The Slovak City of Copper
Located in the heart of central Slovakia, Banská Bystrica is intricately tied in with the history of the Slovak mining industry just like its neighbour Banská Štiavnica. In fact, in the Slovak language, Banská means mine and in this case we speak of copper mines. With the help of deep shaft miners from Germany, this city was able to forge a reputation for itself built from the proceeds of its copper, the key ingredient in the production of bronze.
Geography
The city is located in the Hron River valley and is located well above sea level at an altitude of 362 meters (1,188 ft), nestled in between three renowned mountain chains at the center of the Slovak heartland.
A Brief History
Celts, Germans and the Early Slavic Settlement
The town was occupied by Celtic and subsequently German tribes in Antiquity before a Slavic settlement was established which would then become part of the Slovak Precursor state, the Great Moravian Empire. This settlement took hold in the 9th century A.D.
The Germans in particular were attracted by the town’s mining wealth.
Magyar Rule and the Austro-Hungarian Empire
The Magyars, or Hungarians, established themselves in the Danube Basin in the 10th century. They would rule Slovak lands (Upper Hungary) until the creation of a Czechoslovak state in the 20th century. The town was obliterated by the Mongols during their 1243 incursions into Europe that devastate Hungary forcing the Hungarian king to hide out in the Croat town of Trogir. In response King Béla IV, gave the town Royal Privileges in 1255 and to help develop it he attracted new skilled labour. Germans were known for their deep shaft mining techniques and they soon settled in the city (see Carpathian Germans). The city was now a thriving industrial powerhouse with a mining industry to match anywhere in the Kingdom of Hungary.
Noble Hungarian families such as the famed Thurzo clan invested heavily in the town and its highly skilled workforce and by the 16th century it was the leading copper producing center in Europe. A firm for the mining operations called the Ungarischer Handel was created. It was host to the most advanced mining technologies in Europe, a modern accounting system, and a system of benefits was founded for the thousand employees of the mines. The miners skills made them valuable and they could use this as a bargaining chip against the powerful (and often greedy) Hungarian lords.
In later years of the 16th century the Kingdom of Hungary collapsed under Ottoman pressure and Upper Hungary was subject to Turkish raids. As such new walls were built. This period was one of increased turmoil as the city was a major host to the Protestant Reformation.
Austro Hungarian Empire and the First World War
What was left of Hungary was eventually incorporated in the Austrian Empire under the Habsburgs dynasty. A staunch catholic state, the Austrians struggled to quell the religious uprisings and as such tried more cohesive means to stifle Protestantism. This conflicted with the religious freedom guaranteed by the Royal Charter in Banská Bystrica. The matter was also complicated by the election of Prince Gabriel Bethlen of Transylvania, a Protestant as King of Hungary by the Diet of Hungary meeting at Banská Bystrica.
By the 18th century the city had experienced the decline of its mines, as they had exhausted the copper. This industry was replaced with the trade of timber, paper, and textiles as well as the creation of a new bishopric and schools.
Czechoslovakia, Soviet “Liberation” and the Modern Era
The Czechoslovak state was created at the conclusion of the first world war and was confirm after the peace treaty of Trianon in 1920, whereby all of Upper Hungary was once again in Slovak hands – the original inhabitants of the land since Great Moravian times.
The Second World War saw the founding of a Slovak puppet state created by Germany and then taken by force after the Slovak National Uprising in 1944. This was one of the most important anti-nazi uprising and saw the Slovak resistance fight against Tiso’s collaborationist government. This rebellion was put down by the German army and collaborators. The Red Army would then take the town in 1945 along with Romanian troops.
After the velvet revolution and divorce the city became part of the new Slovak state.
What to do in Banská Bystrica
From exploring the old town square to better understanding the tragedies of Nazi occupation, this city has a lot to offer.
Eastern Suburbs
The suburbs to the east of SNP square are full of stately buildings but also some strange alternative structures that tend to crop up when you have a thriving arts scene.
This includes galleries and theaters such as the The Puppet theatre at the Crossroads.
One of these alt spots is the old Star Cinema, a graffiti filled building.
Museum of the Slovak National Uprising
This modernist monstrosity that resembles a UFO is none the less important to visit despite its poor architectural merits.
The museum includes outdoor and indoor exhibits, with the exterior material dealing with many armaments from that period including tanks and planes. You will also find a restaurant called Basta in one of the old towers.
Inside you will find dated displays with military uniforms and weapons. Despite its age the museum is still particularly interesting as it details the history of an even long forgotten outside of Slovakia. There are also displays on antifascist troops that chose to fight the Nazi hordes with foreign armies.
Banska Bystrica Castle
The highlight of any visit to the city, the old castle is the most recognizable building in town. Although only a small portion of the complex of walls remain, specifically the old barbarian gate and bell-tower which would have connected to a drawbridge over an earthen moat. Ironically this was less of a castle to protect people but one to protect objects, specifically the horded byproducts of the copper and silver trade for the imperial treasury.
Like most castles in the region it began as a modest structure, with construction of the town chapel beginning in the 13th century, around the same time that king Bela IV was granting his charters (the village was founded under Bela, after the Mongol Invasion). In the 15th century a robust set of walls was erected to defend the most important municipal structures. These were reinforced in the 16th century as the Turkish threat loomed large. Unfortunately much of the castle grounds were lost to fire in 1761 and in 1949 the last part of the castle itself, the Mill Tower was torn down.
Despite these losses there is lots to see! This includes the 15th century Matej’s House, a gothic building, the old town hall, the Slovak Church and the Church of the Assumption.
One of the structures of renown in town, the Church of the Assumption is a gothic beauty that happens to be the oldest cultural monument in the city. Inside you will be able to see its beautiful naive.
SNP Square, Central Museum and the Old Town
This massive oblong public space is home to the most recognizable buildings and monuments in the city.
At its center lies a massive stone fountain facing the the Central Museum and an obelisk commemorating the Romanian and Soviet solders that lost their lives “liberating” the country from the Nazi’s. Romanians were heros, but one could argue that the soviets were more akin to occupiers.
Anchoring the square on its eastern extent is the old town hall, climb up its tower to get a great view of the surrounding mountains. You will also find the St Francis Xavier Cathedral. Just outside the square you will find a beautiful 20th century building, the regional branch of the National Bank of Slovakia in Banská Bystrica.
Pass Under the Famous Arcade on Národná Street
Connecting to the main square, via an arcaded passageway, is possibly the prettiest main street in the city, Národná.
Day Trips
Kremnica
One of the smaller mining settlements, Kremnica was no less important to the region. Its medieval old town is one of the best in Slovakia.
Banská Štiavnica
Another Banská, Banská Štiavnica is Banská Bystrica’s twin. In the case the city was once of the premier silver mining settlement as well as a center of science and technology. It is perhaps the prettiest town in all of Slovakia.
Slovenská Ľupča
Located due east of the city this town and castle is located above a historic crossroads for trade. Slovenská Ľupča is well worth a visit but be sure to check the hours ahead of time as they can be quite limited.
Conclusion
Its really hard to fault Slovaks for loving this town so much. Day trippers fill the streets on weekend or for a day trip. Despite the domestic tourists, this town has been left relatively undiscovered by international tourists, allowing it to retain much of its charm. Come see the beauty generated by all that copper and ignore the concrete imperfections added by communism.
