Banff National Park – Into the Rocky Mountains

July 10, 2023 by admin

A longtime favourite of Canadians, Banff National Park (along with its co-conspirator Jasper) evokes images of rugged outdoorsmen and pristine wilderness. Not only has the park managed to claw its way into the national consciousness – becoming part of the nations branding in the process but portraits of its glacial lakes and high adorn the walls of galleries and classic hotels. During the modern era, Banff has also become a center for mass tourism, and as such has become a rather commercial place (unlike Jasper). Nerveless I would absolutely recommend visiting the park to anyone, there is a reason that it is so busy. Welcome to Canada’s first National Park!

For those interested in the Icefields Parkway, it is split in half between Banff and Jasper National Park. For elements belonging to Banff Park, you can find a links in the later sections of this post.

This post should be read in conjunction with my stub on Lake Louise and Moraine Lake as well as my post on Lake Minnewanka and Johnson Lake.

Entering Banff

Speaking nations consciousness, the entry into the Park from Calgary, is nothing short of breathtaking. As the infinite plains of the prairies give way to the massive walls of rock that is the western rocky mountains.

On your way into the park following Trans-Canada Highway #1, you will witness the Bow River flow past Canmore into the magnificent Lac des Arcs, glacial downpour giving life from the mountains the the prairies at their feet.

When you arrive at the limits of Banff, you will be required to pay a toll at the historic gates of park, if planning on spending time in the park instead of passing though. Park passes are purchased for as many days as you would like to stay in the park. Be sure to display your permit on your dash when parking in town or using park facilities.

Scenic Byways

Throughout the park, you will be able to stop off an enjoy view of the magnificent scenery, either by way of strategic viewpoints or by way of hiking from a trailhead.

A Brief History of Banff

Banff first apeared with the completion of the transcontinental railroad along the Bow Valley, yet it would only begin to take shape after three Canadian Pacific Railway workers discovered what is now called the Cave and Basin Historic Site in 1883. The discovery of hot springs along the slopes of sulfur mountain spurred a boom that would lead to the creation of hotels in town, including the famed Banff Springs hotel. At the time these mineral hot springs were thought to have medical properties and the springs became an international tourist attraction. The town grew to service this tourist rush.

The name of Banff comes from George Stephen, the then president of the Canadian Pacific Railway. He named the town after his birthplace of Banff, Scotland in in 1884.

Town of Banff

Downtown Banff

Your first stop in Banff park will most likely be the town of Banff. Although little more then a quaint mountain village a century ago, it is now a bustling tourism hub. Luckily much of the old town’s charm still remains amidst the crass development.

The town is laid out in a typical grid pattern with the main street oriented on a north-south axis with the towering Mount Norquay to the north and the venerable Fairmont Chateaux Banff located to the south. Along the main street, you will find many bars, restaurants and shops.

As for cultural activities, I recommend a visit either to the Banff Park Museum, the Whyte Museum or Buffalo Nations Museum.

Among the popular businesses you will find the Banff Brewing company, with a balcony overlooking the main street. On a colder fall day you can still sit here as there are heaters, it is very pleasant.

A notable structure along the main street is St. Paul’s, a 1930’s church built in an alpine style.

St. Paul’s and Mt. Norquay.

Most of the downtown is relatively new construction. If you are looking for heritage structures, you will find some on the suburban neighborhood hill near tunnel mountain. Here you will find several Bavarian styled homes such as the The Harmon.

Otherwise you will be able to find a variety of old cottages and heritage log homes sprinkled across the city.

Here are photos of a few more of them such as the Sibbald Residence (1915) and the Crag Cabin (1889).

Cascade in Time Garden and the Banff National Park Administration Building

Across the Bow River, to the south of Downtown, you will find the Cascade in Time Garden. From the bridge, you will get great views of the river and its clear blue waters.

A beautiful escape from Banff’s busy core, the garden sites at the feat of the lovely Banff National Park Administration Building. This L-spaed stone building dates from 1936 and looks like a small castle. It is significant due to its role in developing Canada’s first national park system.

The garden may be small but is set surrounded by the high peaks of the Rockies, giving it much charm.

From the steps of the administration building you will also get a great view of the town along with Mount Norquay.

Bow River Trail and Bow Falls

Along the Bow River you will find nature trails running from the downtown to Bow falls. Crossing the river you will find the Banff Pedestrian Bridge river crossing offering views of the river and the surrounding mountains.

Across this bridge you will find an set of old industrial buildings new the YWCA Banff Hotel.

As you continue walking along the bow river on the south side of the river you will find that the flow of the river picks up in speed as you get closer to Bow falls.

The falls themselves are not the most impressive in the Rockies but are within walking distance from the town and accessible via a parking lot and a pathway to the Banff Springs hotel making them ideal for an afternoon picknic.

The view of the river offered from the falls is stunning.

You will also have a great view of Mount Rundle. Furthermore you will find the Mount Rundle Trailhead nearby.

Surprise Corner Viewpoint

Located on the southern escapement of Tunnel Mountain, the Surprise Viewpoint can be accessed either by foot via the Bow River trail on the north shore or by car via Buffalo Road. The previously mentioned trail itself eventually merges into Buffalo Road.

If you are taking the road parking lot will great you at the bend in this road.

Along the roadway you will get great views of the famous Banff Springs hotel along with the bow river!

This spot in the river is near where bow falls is located and there are fast running rapids along the riverbed.

Here are a few more pictures of the hotel from different vantage points.

From the parking lot you can take a series of steps up

Tunnel Mountain

One of the most underrated attractions in Banff, Tunnel Mountain offered fantastic views of both the town and Rundle Mountain. In fact it is perfectly positioned just east of the of town yet close enough that you are looking down on everything.

Not far from the previously mentioned Harmon residence, along Tunnel Mountain road, you will find the pathwat up the mountain. It is a pleasant four and a half kilometer climb up to the top along a well maintained pathway.

As you near the top you will get a great view of the Bow River Valley, east of Banff. This is the prettiest view of the town.

Here are a few more pictures of this area.

When you finally reach the peak you will be able to look down at the town as well as the boy river flowing past it.

In this area you will find muskoka chairs, a crooked tree and a memorial to Queen Elisabeth II’s 90th birthday. These markers can be found at most Banff points of interest.

Banff Springs Hotel

One of Canada’s famous railway hotels, reproduction of a Scottish baronial castle is possible the most striking of them all. First constructed in the late 19th century, it was rebuilt in the early 20th century with the central block completed in 1928. The original wooden structure was destroyed in a fire.

The hotel looks out at mount Rundle, offering its guest a most impressive view of the mountainous landscape.

The rustic interior is made of stone and wood and was strongly influenced by the arts and crafts architectural movement.

For those interested in ghost stories, the hotel has two famous spirits (if you believe in such things!). The first is the Bride, this spirit has been know to haunt the hotels marble staircase and dance hall. She passed on her wedding day during the 1920’s, suffering from a fall down the stairs . The second is Sam the Bellman, a friendly spirit of a Scottish hotel worker who passed in 1975. This friendly spirit has been known to help hotel guests and staff with tasks from time to time.

Make sure to find the hotel’s historic taproom and if you are ever hear for breakfast, you can feast on giant cinnamon buns!

One of the most beautiful rooms in the building is Mount Stephen Hall, often used for events.

In the back part of the property for the heritage hotel you will find the Waldhaus Restaurant, a fancy Bavarian style cottage.

As well as the back entrance leading down to bow falls.

Mt. Norquay

Located on the north side of Banff, this sky hill offers great views from its peak. This peak can be accessed by car in the summer and picnics can be had on a large grassed slope overlooking the town. Apart from skying, one can do plenty of hiking nearby.

Hoodoos Trail

For those less familiar with this type of rock formation, a hoodoo is a tall and narrow rock formation formed in a valley due to erosion. Banff has its own hoodoos along a walking trail.

Cave and Basin National Historic Site

This is where Banff got its start. In 1883 three railroad workers discovered these hot springs triggering the creation of Canada’s first national park.

Sulfur Mountain, the Banff Gondola & the Upper Banff Hot Springs

Standing tall behind the Fairmont chateau Banff, is Sulfur Mountain. At the end of a long road you will find

Other attraction Within the Park

Saskatchewan River Canyon & the Mistaya Canyon

One of the most impressive glacial river, the Saskatchewan is an incredible beast coming out of the mountains. More information of the Saskatchewan River Crossing and the Mistaya Canyon can be found here.

Johnson Canyon

This popular nature hike is a staple of the Banff tourist circuit. More information on the Johnson Canyon can be found here.

Lake Louise & Moraine Lake

These two stunning glacial lakes are some of the most famous in the Rocky Mountains. More information on the Lake Louise and Moraine Lake can be found here.

Minnewanka, Two Jack & Johnson Lake

This trio of lakes is a well known recreational playground right outside of the town of Banff. More information on the Minnewanka, Two Jack and Johnson Lake can be found here.

Payto, Bow & Hector Lake

Another set of famed glacial lakes, especially Payto with its lookout, these are are well worth the visit. More information on the Payton, Bow and Hector Lake can be found here.

Banff-Sunshine Ski Village

Known for some of the best snow in the Canadian Rockies, this ski hill has the distinction of sitting on the BC/Alberta border

Conclusion

Despite the crass commercialization of the town, Banff still retains the essential ingredients that led to its popularity. A weekend here still feels like you have entered the wild heartland of the Canadian Rockies, where beauty meets instrumentality.

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