Balkan Wine & Spirits – 10 Best Regions to Indulge the Vino

The Balkans region of Europe is often past over by tourist for its better known western cousins. Wine lovers, although sophisticated, often make the same mistakes when purchasing this fine beverage – they skip over anything east or south of Berlin. Balkan wines are some of the best in the world and are still relatively undiscovered. Think about it! Go to your local liquor stone and count the racks of French, Portuguese and Spanish wines. Now look for Eastern European, Caucasus and Balkan varieties of the drink, you will usually find a small rack or none at all. Without further ado here are a few Balkan regions that produce sublime wine and spirits.

Table of Contents

• Herzegovina, BiH
• Serbia
• Istria, Croatia
• Dalmatia, Croatia
• Moldavia, Moldova/Romania
• Lake Skadar, Montenegro
• The Thracian Valley, Bulgaria/Greece/Turkey
• Central Region (Tikveš Valley), North Macedonia
• Ouzo – Lesvos, Greece
• Rakia (or Raki, Rakija), Found Throughout the Balkans

Herzegovina, BiH

Unfortunately, the country of Bosnia & Herzegovina is often shortened simply to Bosnia, ignoring the southernmost reaches of the country, a cultured and multi-ethnic area know as Herzegovina. The triangular shaped piece of land, is known for its regional capital of Mostar and is split between Serbs, Croats and Bosniaks (Muslim Bosnians). It is in the area south of Mostar, between it and the Adriatic Sea, that is best for grape production. Here you will find local grape varieties such as Žilavaka (White) and Blatina (Red).

For real wine aficionados, a visit to the Tvrdoš Serbian Orthodox Monastery not far from Trebinje is an absolute must. Not only is the monastery a stunning piece of history, it hosts wine cellars dating from the 15th century with the product being stored in one-hundred year old oak barrels. This is a great place to try the above mentioned white and red native grape varieties. For the casual drinker, many large wineries can be found around Trebinje so you may want to spend a few days in the region.

Serbia

One would have no way of guessing that Serbia is one of the emerging wine producers in the Eurozone. It is hard to pinpoint a specific part of Serbia as the country is criss-crossed by vineyards. Serbian wine production all began during the 500 years of Imperial Roman occupation, when irrigation channels were dug, and vines planted into the rich Serb soil, and why not! The Serbian climate is ideal for such a culture. During the 19th century, this region briefly became one of the most important in Europe as a distraught France sought new wines after Burgundy and Bordeaux grapes were ravaged with sickness (phylloxera). The Austro-Hungarian Empire overlords that occupied Serbia at this time were keen to promote the produce from its Serbian dependencies. Unfortunately, the breakup of Yugoslavia decimated Serbia’s wine industry and it is only just now coming back into its own.

Today vineyards can be found in the north, near the old Hungarian city of Subotica as well as throughout the center of the country including near the cities of Novi Sad, Belgrade and Nis.

Istria, Croatia

This large triangular piece of land protruding into the Adriatic, in known for its charming rural character. Truffles aren’t the only delicacy native to this regions. The most Italian region of Croatia sports some serious Italian styled wines and we all know how good those are!

Dalmatia, Croatia

The Roman heart of the Balkans, Dalmatia has always been known for its mild climate and stunning islands. This arid coastal region is best know for its scrumptious whites (although reds and a few rose’s are produced further south). The history of wine production dates back 2500 years, when wine culture was imported by Greek colonists on the islands of Vis, Hvar and Korčula. The region has not looked back since and production has surged on the mainland. Don’t miss out on Dalmatian wine!

Moldavia, Moldova/Romania

Once part of Romania, Moldova, a little known European nation has developed into a wine producing powerhouse. It borders northern Romania, a region sloping down from the Upper Carpathians and was once merged with that part of the country to form a state called Moldavia. This was one of the original precursor states to Romania, becoming part of that country after a merger with Wallachia to the south. Today, both sides of the border are know for their wine productions.

In Central Moldova you will find the Mileștii Mici winery and its famous Wine Cellars, the largest in the word, holding over 2 million bottles. This massive underground complex stretches for over 200km (although only 55 are in use!), where rows of oak barrels hold the prized liquid. Moldova is a country with more grape vines per capita than anywhere in the word and as such you can expect a few local grape varieties, reds are often stored or imported to the cellars where they ferment in optimal temperature and humidity conditions. Yet for an authentic experience you should go with an authentic whites indigenous experience. The country is well regarded for this type of wine and the climate is best for this type of grape to thrive.

Like Moldova, northern Romania is renowned for its white wines, the culture of witch centers around the village of Cotnari (my favorite Romanian white) and the university city of Iasis. The wine producer in Cotnari is known for its wine library (one of the few remaining in Romania), a collection of 1 million bottles. This part of Moldavia was renowned for its wines and in the 19th century, its produce was quite popular in France. The temperatures favor the appearance of botrytis, ‘noble rot’, that helps to make the wine sweet. The indigenous white verities grown here include Frâncușā, Tāmâioasā, Grasā and Feteascā Neagrā.

Lake Skadar, Montenegro

The hills above Lake Skadar’s southern shore offer a pleasant glimpse of the marshy lake itself as well as a culinary delicacy – a fine wine like no other. Centered around the western shore not far from the town of Virpazar and the imposing Besac castle is the cream of the country’s wine industry. Rising from the lake are green hills and cypress groves, waiting to be explored via narrow country roads.

Both the lake and mountainous conditions have allowed Montenegro’s Skadar region to develop heavenly white wines. These are usually paired with platters of culinary delicacies such as with Montenegrin cheese and a unique Prosciutto produced in Lovcen National Park.

The Thracian Valley, Bulgaria/Greece/Turkey

The Thracian Valley, a historic region encompassing a large part of Southern Bulgaria along with parts of Greece and Turkey, is home to what the Greek poet Homer considered to be the best wines in the world! The unique Mavrud and Gamza grape varieties grow here and although Cabarets and Merlots are grown in the northern part of Bulgaria but the south, part of the Thracian Valley is home to dark earthen wines, almost like Pinot Noir. The best place to visit in this part of the country is the small town of Melnik. It is in Melnik that the famous Melnik 55 is produced, Churchill’s favorite wine – and one purported to taste lightly like cigarettes (can confirm that this is true!).

Central Region (Tikveš Valley), North Macedonia

In a country consisting mostly of hills, central Macedonia’s Tikveš Plain offers somewhat of a relief from the harsh terrain. The region is bisected by the Vardar river, an important water course leading to the capital of Skopje, the river held back by a mountain reservoir in the southern end of the plain. This region has offered quality wines since cultivation began during the early 20th century, at one point consisting of two-thirds of Yugoslavia’s wine production. After the fall of the state volume dropped considerably and efforts were made to increase the quality of the wine. Although modern wine production in Tikves may seem like a recent phenom, historic wine production has taken place here as far back as 500B.C, this is in large part due to the geography of the region and the sublime climate. You will find mostly red wines in this part of Macedonia as the climate suits it best (over 80% of Macedonian wines are red). I would recommend a visit to either Stobi Winery, located by a stunning set of roman ruins (and my personal favorite red wine in the Balkans!) and Tikveš Winery.

Alternatively, if you are staying in Ohrid and do not with to make the drive to Tikves you can stop in Bitola, The small plain around the city offers a similar climate and competing wineries have begun to spring up around the southern city!

Ouzo – Lesvos, Greece

The legendary island of Lesvos (yes, that means lesbian island!) is home to a staggering 17 ouzo distilleries, the best known of whitch are centered on the island capital of Mytilini. The national liquor of Greece and Cyprus is best know for its distinctively smooth licorice taste. The potent drink is best paired with food and is similar to the below mentioned Raki, yet is distilled with grains instead of fruits or wine throwaways.

Rakia (or Raki, Rakija), Found Throughout the Balkans

By far the most widespread liquor of the Balkans, Rakia, is a well known hard liquor made of distilled fruit spirits. Although it is possible to buy this in stores, a good authentic Raki will come from rural farms where it is distilled from leftover wine scraps (grapes) or fruit such as plumbs, pears, apricots, apples, cherries, figs and quinces. Much like americium moonshine, the rural Raki will run upwards of 50% alcohol. It is served with meal in most cafe’s and restaurants throughout all Balkan nations, as such, one could say is the official drink of the region. As the region is traditional and rather male dominated, the drinker is expected to hold his alcohol. I remember a visit to the rural town of Gjirokaster and a specific supper where it was particularly difficult to compose myself, even for a pro like me! One can not say that they have experienced the Balkans, unless they have sipped the vile liquid with locals, their sun battered faces staring blankly back at you, daring you to bling (get drunk) first!