Aswan and the Elephantine Islands – Kitchener’s Lush Paradise
With all the hustle and bustle along the Nile corridor, it is hard to believe that a lush paradise such as Aswan could exist at all. Located at the first and most important cataract in the Nile river, the body of water is filled with Fellucia’s, the traditional river boats of the Egypt, while imposing sand dunes on the shore flank lush green islands. Lord Kitchener, the British General, must have been in awe of this sight. In many ways Aswan is the last bastion of civilization before the Nile takes its sweet time meandering though the Sudan. Its a long way to Khartoum, as the general would find out during the River War! Years later, while serving time as Consul-General in Egypt he was gifted an island in Aswan which he turned into one of the worlds greatest botanical gardens. Oddly enough it is not of the wonderful sacred temples of ancient ancient Egyptian that I think of when I ponder back on my time in Aswan but of this perfect garden, flowering in deep shades of purple.
Table of Contents
- Geography
- Transportation
- A Brief History
- What to do in Aswan?
- Day Trips
- Conclusion
Geography
As previously mentioned, Aswan is built on the first cataract of the Nile. These were shallow sections of water between Aswan and Khartoum in the Sudan that were difficult to navigate in ancient times, some would call them whitewater rapids. The city is located in southern tier of Egypt and beyond it lies the old land of Khush, home of the Nubian people. Today the cataracts were made navigable by the construction of the Aswan Dams, a series of two massive hydro structures located south of the city. The construction of these flooded much of the Egyptian section of ancient Nubia, submerging the cataracts underneath a massive reservoir of water. Trapped between the two damns is the island of Philae and its stunning temple.
Transportation
There are three ways to get in and out of Aswan; Riverboat, Train or the International Airport.
A Brief History
In the time of Ancient Egypt, the city was called Swenett, before being known as Syene during the Ptomolaic (Greek) Period. This name roughly translates to Aswān in Arabic.
Ancient Egypt
Swenett was an important center of trade during Pharaonic times due to its proximity to Nubia, a subject that will be discussed later in this post. Nubia was the Egyptians foothold into the rich African interior. From here they imported gold, incense, ebony, copper, ivory, and exotic animals. Due to its position on the first cataract, Aswan was a first rate port of trade for these goods. In town the quarries provided work for many of the men not involved in the trade of goods. It is in Aswan that many important pieces for temples were carved and sent down the Nile River. It was also a garrison/military town due to its position near the frontier of the Empire. It would adopt Coptic practices and was the seat of a christian bishopric in later years.
Ptolemaic Egypt and Rome
Aswan retained its importance during the Greek Pharaoes of the Ptomelaic Era. The Greeks, like the Egyptians before them cemented their status by building temples on the Elephantine islands, particularly at Philae, in the Nile river. With the fall of Egypt to the Romans, the old Pagan ways died out and the town saw the influx of christian, quickly followed by the persecution of said Christians. It is in the old temples of the pagans that the new Christians worshipped in secret.
Islamic Period
After the split of the Roman Empire the Byzantines took over but this was soon shattered by the invasion of the Muslim Arab armies from Arabia. One of the Islamic dynasties that most impacted Aswan was the Fatimids. Yet during these rules the city was mostly a provincial backwater.
Colonial and Modern Era
After a long occupation by several Arab dynasties, the region became part of the British Empire. The last kings (khedives) of the empire had built the railway connecting to the city. In turn the British continued that tradition and invested heavily in the city. They built the First Aswan Dam. The second damn would come after the ascension of the nationalist leader of an independent Egypt, Nasser.
What to do in Aswan?
For a city so far south of the Nile river, Aswan is surprisingly dynamic and exiting. There is a lot of things to do here as seen below.
The Town of Aswan (The East Bank of the Nile River)
The main part of the city of Aswan, the majority of the population lives in this part of the metropolitan area.
The Unfinished Obelisk and Quarry
In the southern edge of the city center of Aswan, across the street from the old Fatamid Cemetery and the Nubian Museum, you will find an old quarry used during the time of Ancient Egypt.
Admission to the site allows you to climb up to the top of the granite quarry. There were many of these quarries along the Nile as far as sugan, serving both the old and the new kingdom. Many are now submerged under Lake Nasser but other down the Nile can still be seen. Ancient Egypt was hungry for raw materials for their temples and limestone, sandstone and granite were in constant demand.
From the top you will see the Unfinished Obelisk, ordered by Hatshepsut (1508–1458 BC), possibly for the temple at Karnak. When finished finished it would have measured nearly 42 meters (138 ft) and weighed 1,090 tonnes, a weight equal to about 200 African elephants. Around it you will find some tools used to care the granite pillar, including large stone balls that would have been used with blunt force to carve around the obelisk. The reason for its abandonment is apparent, a large crack that had formed in the structure, probably a massive disappointment for the queen.
Fatimid Cemetery
The Fatimid Cemetery one of oldest remaining places of burial in the Islamic world. You will find it directly across from the unfinished obelisk. The tombs date as far back as the 9th century and are built in a unique dommed style unique to southern Egypt, where the corners stick out like horns. Tombs decorated with flags belong to local saints and it you see someone circling the tomb it is a unique form of prayer.
Nubian Museum
This massive archeological museum is 50,000 square meters including gardens and other public spaces. The institution is dedicated to the Nubian culture and civilization.
Old Cataract Hotel
The Sofitel Legend Old Cataract Hotel better known as the Old Cataract Hotel, is a historic British colonial-era 5-star hotel. Located right on the Nile River, it founded in 1899 by Thomas Cook, founder of the tour company of the same name. The guestlist includes the likes of Tsar Nicholas II, Winston Churchill, Howard Carter, Margaret Thatcher, Jimmy Carter, François Mitterrand, Princess Diana, Dr Henry Kissinger, Queen Noor and Agatha Christie. Agatha Christie in fact would set portions of her novel Death on the Nile at the hotel.
Make sure to check out the neo-moorish dining room inside the hotel, it is absolutely fantastic.
Aswan Souk (Sharia as-Souq)
A great destination during all times of day, this area really comes alive at night when bars (mostly non-alcoholic) fill up with Awanis watching soccer matches, music fills the street and lights fill the streets. The market is located about four blocks from the Nile river and runs for a total of 7 blocks, parallel to the river.
Some of the items you will find at the stalls include nuts such as penuts and exotic fruits.
You will also find essence of my favorite drinks! Hibiscus flower petals. You must try this Egyptian specialty. Served either cold or hot, sweetened or not, it has a fantastic taste.
Some of the shops are quite elaborate like this prince of spices!
You could also try an Egyptian sweet.
Other items you will find include spices, so many spices, spices as far as the eye can see. Be careful in these shops. he locals will get a much better price and the shopkeepers are almost incorrigible in their desire the screw you over. Weather it be via quantities (weighing) or price, they are astute and will pray on your ignorance of the local product.
Despite this the Sharia as-Souq as it is called is the cheapest place to buy souvenirs in Aswan. The bazaar has a veriaty of Egyptian and African goods, you will even find Nubian items such as skullcaps, talismans and baskets, Sudanese swords and carpets.
A shout out goes to Kim who we met in Egypt for sending me extra pictures of the Souk, always appreciated!
Coptic Orthodox Cathedral of the Archangel Michael
Consecrated in 2006, this church has already left its mark on the Aswani skyline.
The twin towered church is surounded by a thick security blanket and is located beside the Aswan water tower.
Feryal Garden
This park located on a rocky outcropping offers fantastic view of the mountains on the west bank of the nile and to the south. It is located next to the famed Old Cataract Hotel.
The West Bank of the Nile River
Tombs of the Nobles
On the west side of the Nile rive, opposite to Kitchener’s Island, you will find one of Aswan’s most prominent landmark the Tombs of the nobles a collection of ruck cut tombs dating from governors the Old and Middle Kingdoms. Those buried are the governors and dignitaries of Elephantine Island who styled themselves the Keepers of the Gate of the South.
There are a ton of important tombs, including that of Hekaib, Sarenput I, Harkhuf, Sarenput II, Mekhu and Sabni among the most prominent but there are hundreds of tombs overall. Not far from this you will find a path going up and down the dunes. Many people take camel rides along the western shore of the river.
Agha Khan Mausoleum
I’m going to take my camel to the old Khan Road, ride till i Khan no more (oh god that was lame!).
Welcome to the Agha Khan mausoleum, home of Aga Khan III. Maned Sir Sultan Muhammed Shah, he died in 1957. The Khan’s are actually the decedents of the aforementioned Fatimid dynasty. The rich Aga Khan family is known for their philanthropy especially in their native Egypt where the government has often failed the people. Aga Khan III loved aswan and his burial here shows a strong connection between the Fatimid man and this Egyptian city. In front of the pretty domed building you will find the Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan House, a winter home of the Aga Khan.
Monastery of St. Simeon (Monastery of St. Hedra)
Tucked in behind the sand dunes, far past the Agha Khan mausoleum is the Monastery of St. Hedra, originally thought to be a shrine of St. Simeon. Surrounded by 10 meter high walls, this fortress of a monastery dates from the 7th century A.D. It was dedicated to a local saint, that of Anba Hedra, who renounced the world on his wedding day. It was rebuilt in the 10th century and dedicated to St Simeon. The location of the monastery is telling. it is taught that its location in Aswan was used as a staging point for the monks to travel into Nubia, to convert some of the local Nubian’s to Christianity. After getting across the river by boat, you can either take a vehicle up the paved road to the monastery, walk it or take a camel.
The monastery is basically a ruin and although it once house a possible 1000 monks it is uninhabitable today. It was partially destroyed by Saladin (Salah Ad Din) in 1173. Saladin was part of the Ayyubid dynasty of kings.
The Elephantine Islands (Including Kitchener’s Island)
Kitchener’s Island and Botanical Garden
From the east bank of the river we chartered a boat to Kitchener’s island, my favourite attraction in Aswan.
The long piece of land in the Nile river is known for its lush vegetation, giving the city a tropical feeling.
The boatriad in will give you a chance to admire the tombs of the nobles from far
Once on the island you will be able to walk down a central boulevard lined with exhotic trees, giving the island a tree cover seldom seen in Egypt. The famed Lord Kitchener once owned it. He was gifted the island when he was Consul-General in Egypt during the early 20th century.
After starting off with an irrigation project he turned the 750 meters (2,460 ft) long island into a paradise complete with of exotic trees and plants, many of these coming from India.
From the island you get great view of the Agha Khan Mausoleum as well as the city of Aswan itself.
There is a specific small cove on the south eastern side that i find splendid. It is where I got my cover picture for this post from. You will also find many beautiful pink and purple flowers mixed in amid the palms of the island.
Famine Stella (Sehel Island)
Located on Sehel Island, the famine stella dates from the Ptolemaic Kingdom. Its hieroglyphics tell the story of a massive seven-year drought leading to famine and misery. This event took place during the reign of pharaoh Djoser of the Third Dynasty of the Old Kingdom. The stone can still be seen today!
Temple of Khom, Elephantine Pyramid and Assorted Temples (Elephantine Island)
The Elephantine Island was an important religious during pharaonic times. Its Egyptian named meant Elephant, just as the name would suggest. A fort and trading post was built on the island to control the river trade.
Prior to to 1822, there were temples to Thutmose III and Amenhotep III important Pharaoes but were destroyed by the Albanian ruler of Egypt Muhammad Ali on his way to conquer Sudan.
The island was thought to be an important religious place as Elephantine was the dwelling place of the god of the cataracts Khnum (recognizable by his Ram head!). This god operated from caves beneath the island and controlled the waters of the Nile. Worshipped among two other gods Satis and Anuket, it was considered the “Elephantine Triad. Satis was a war goddess hence her tribute at this garrison town. It is thought that Satis was in a relationship with Kumn, giving birth to a daughter called Anuket. She was fertility goddess as well and personified the the flooding of the Nile that brought about crops. Hence this triad was a perfect representation of Aswan itself!
There is massive collection of buildings that has been excavated on the island including the remains of the temples mentioned above.
Temple to Yahweh (Elephantine Island)
Believe it or not but there are even the ruins of an ancient Jewish temple on the island. During the 7th century BC of a community of Judean mercenaries and their families settled on Elephantine, employed by the Egyptians to watch the frontier. This colony was amplified by refugees of the Babylonian destruction of Jerusalem in the 6th century BC. The temple their built worked in conjunction with their Egyptian temple neighbours and they even share some practices, yet the temple was unfortunately destroyed in 410 BC by the priests of Khnum.
Museum of Aswan and the Nilometer (Elephantine Island)
This museum holds the artifacts uncovered during the work of the Aswan High Dam, it is housed in a pavilion like structure not far from the Elephantine Island temples.
In the right of the picture below you will see an opening in the rock. This is the Elephantine Island Nilometer, one of the oldest devices of its kind in Egypt accessed via a staircase. It was used to measure the clarity and water level of the river to estimate the level of flooding thus the level of river flood plain cultivation that could be taxed. This Nilometer was last reconstructed during the Roman Empire. The Nilometer was made obsolete after the construction of the Aswan damn. Nile flows are now regulated by this structure and the important nutrient and flood cycle has been broken.
The Aswan Dams, New Kalabsha and the Philae Temple
Called out as an environmental and social calamity by some, and by others a much needed act of modernization, the Aswan dam continues to divide expert opinion even to this day. Yet it has undeniably become a symbol of modern Egyptian identity. In this section we explore the land beyond and between the dams that bear Aswan’s name.
The Dams
There are two dams, the Aswan Low and High Dam. Attempts at damming the Nile in the location go back to Arab rule in the 11th century. The Low Dam is often refereed to as the old Aswan Dam. This buttressed structure was constructed between 1899 and 1902. Considered an engineering marvel in its time , it was the largest masonry dam in the world. Yet it was soon overshadowed. Built during British rule, it worked as intended did not provide adequate storage capacity for Egypt’s growing irrigation scenes. In many ways this was by design. The height of the dam was limited due to environmental and conservation concerns.
The full extent of the old dam can be seen from Philae temple.
The second dam is a second engineering marvel. It the is the world’s largest embankment dam and was constructed from 1960 and 1970.
Built by the Nationalistic Leader of Egypt Gamel Nasser it was a major power play in the cold war. Originally planned with western backing, their support eroded as environmental concerns were brought forth. The Russians had so such qualms and helped finance the dam, putting socialist Egypt firmly into Russia’s Cold War camp. I will try to keep the description with the positives and negatives of the dam as neutral as possible as it has both its detractors and promoters and both have valid arguments. First and foremost the hydro power generated by the dam is immense and helped power the young nation into the 21st century. At its inception it power half of Egypt, a remarkable feet! It has also been a source of immense national pride that the young country was able to pull it off and finally it created predictability and certainty for the Egyptian farmers. Crops could be harvested twice a year, floods and droughts are no longer concerns or things to be planned for since there is a consistent supply of water dripping from the dams immence reservoir and the area that is irrigated fro farming has expanded considerably. As with any positives there are always trade offs. Although many temples such as those of Philae and Abu Simbel were moved there was still a loss cultural heritage due to the loss of the Nubian homeland beneath the waves. There were also ecological impacts, animals that were once native to Egypt’s Nile river such as hippos and and the ever important Nile crocodile. Both of these animals are represented in Egypt’s gods (Seth is the Hippy while Sobek is the Crock). More severe environmental impacts include the loss of the Nile’s annual flooding, without these floods the river’s rich natural fertilizer called the limon noir (Black Silt) would not reach the fields, being stuck behind the dam forcing the use of artificial fertilizer. Furthermore due to the fact that the Nile sediment is stuck behind the dam and there are no floods to push it to the Nile Delta, salt water erosion has eaten away at the delta.
Philae Temple and Bigeh
The Philae Marina, used to reach the famed Temple of the same name is located on the east bank, just passed the first dam and the Museum of the Nile.
From here you can catch a boat to Philae Island.
The boat will navigate around the nearby rocky islands before landing at a marina at the base of the temple.
You will also get to see the temple from the water. The temple was flooded by the construction of the Aswan Dams and had to be relocated to Agilkia Island where it stands today.
The beautiful temple held a holy place among the religious site of ancient Egypt as it was said to be one of the burying-places of the god Osiris and was held in high esteem by the Egyptians and Nubians.
The temple you see today mostly dates from the Helenic Ptomalaic era, yet there has been activity on the site since the reign of Nectanebo I (380-362 BC), one of the last native born Pharoaes of Egypt. This temple was dedicated to Osiris’ wife Isis.
To cement their rule over Egypt the House of Ptolemy merged their Greek origins with Egyptian traditions. This includes temple building in the Egyptian style. This temple was expanded during the reign of Ptolemy II Philadelphus, Ptolemy V Epiphanes, and Ptolemy VI Philometor as well as several smaller works during the roman occupation. The gods worshipped here include Horus, Isis, Osirus, Bes and Hathor among others.
During the years of Greek occupation, the site became a tourist site for people throughout the Greek world.
The roman era saw the eventual decline in importance of the site, compounded by the rapid expansion of the christian faith.
The temple consists of a colonnaded exterior entrancement with a large pavilion leading into an interior courtyard with a second pavilion/hypostyle hall.
On the pavilion walls you will see the ancient graffiti of Hellenic, Roman and Colonial era tourists.
You will also find the fist signs of defacement of the Egyptian gods, something that will be explored shortly.
You may notice that the pavilion engraving of Horus have escaped unharmed. This may be due to the fact that Horus life mirrored that of Jesus and may have earned the sympathy of early christian iconoclasts. The columns are capped with the lotus, the symbol of Upper Egypt (papyrus is the symbol of Lower Egypt) as well you will find columns with the face of Hathor added in.
The interior Hypostyle Hall (interior hall) leads to the “Holy of Holies” but in here you will find a surprising find.
Early Christians were persecuted in the Roman Empire and Egyptian Christians fled to abandoned temples such as Philae where in this case they repossessed the Hypostyle Hall into a church. Here you can see an altar carved into a stone block as well as early christian Coptic iconography (Coptic cross) carved into the walls.
As you can see much of the interior hieroglyphics has been defaced.
Yet much of it can still be read. Here you can see the story of Isis and Osirus, and later their son Horus. If you are intrested I recomend a reading on this subject, the legend of Osiris and his resurrection mirrors that of the christian tale of Lazarus.
Note: If you want to laugh, the story of Horus and his epic fight with his uncle Seth is a odd tale.
Outside you will find Trajan’s Kiosk, a small elegant hall that serves as the most poignant remainder of the Roman occupation of Egypt.
Outside you will find some symbolism belonging to the strange pygmy god of Bes. More demon then god, he represented childbirth, fertility, sexuality, humor, and war, and was seen as the protector god of pregnant women and children. He is though to be a Middle kingdom import from Nubia.
The exterior of the temple is stunning and well worth walking around.
On the north end of the property you will find the remains of a Greco-Roman construction, complete with a colonnade and archway. From here you will get a great view of the Lower Aswan Dam.
For those interested take a boat to the nearby holy island of Bigeh. Once home to ancient temples the partially flooded island will give excellent views of Philae from its rocky heights.
New Kalabsha
This island is home to many temples of ancient Nubia that had to be relocated due to the construction of the Dam including those at old Kalabsha island. The most important of these is the Kalabsha Temple, the most important temple constructed during the Roman Period, it is dedicated to the sun god Mandulis. Others temples were constructed by during the reign of Ramssesse II (the Great!) to project soft power into his holdings in Nubia these include Gerf Hussein, the “House of Ptah” it is dedicated to the previously mentioned god as well as Beit el-Wali, dedicated to Ramesses II, and the gods of Amun and Anukis. The Kiosk of Qertassi is an elegant but unfinished temple while Dedwen was dedicated to Nubian serpent god, Dedwen and was moved alongside the Kalabsha temple.
The Nubian Village “Nubaa” (West Bank of the Nile – Part 2)
As previously mentioned the Nubians were displaced from their ancestral lands long the Nile river by the construction of the Nasser Dam. The new lake destroyed their floodplains and hid their temples and villages beneath the waters of the Nile. As compensation many were relocated to new habitations including this new village in Aswan built during the 60’s and 70’s. I got annoyed looking at pictures of these villages in posts by “Travel Bloggers (/idiots)” that were displaying the beautiful pictures of the traditionally colourful Nubian homes. In many of them they whitewashed the pictures so that these villages would resemble a paradise like environment. This is clearly not the case! Although this new village makes money off tourism, the condition of the Nubian has been of relative squalor and poverty having lost much of their ancestral lands.
So who are the Nubian people? Long ignored by the central government in Cairo, these darker skinned Egyptians have a long and proud cultural tradition. The long history of trade between the two people resulted in a heavy cultural interchange, cooperation, and mixed marriages during ancient history. Nubian bowmen that settled at here during the First Intermediate Period married Egyptian women, practices Egyptian religious & funerary styles and eventually could not be distinguished from Egyptians. In fact for those more knowledgeable about Egyptian history you will know that the Nubians were sometimes used as slaves but at one point subverted a fractured Egypt and installed their own dynasty of Pharaohs (an act that has now been co-opted by afro-centrists that think all of Egyptian society was Nubian). Anyway point being is that much like in the past, Nubians share a long cultural tradition with the Egyptians but have their own customs and traditions, as such I dont want to confound the two. Pre-Dam the Nubians owned their own land along the Nile river and were considered to be mostly farmers and herders. Due to the lack of jobs post-dam many Nubians had to depart for larger centers such as Cairo and were forced into menial labour.
After arriving at the village by boat you will have a chance to walk around. The concrete and mud-brick walls have been painted to give them a smooth finished look, masking the imperfections of this rudimentary housing. Much of the detailing is in recognizable geometric shapes and much of it can be described as beautiful!
A popular attraction is to visit the local schoolhouse. The Nubians, like Egyptians learn to read and wright here in Arabic.
You can actually go up onto the roof of the structure for a great view of the surroundings. On a clear day you can see all the river islands as well as the Aswan Low Dam in the distance.
You will also get great views of the school roof domes and courtyard below.
Another popular stop off is the famed Crocodile House. You can recognize it via the skinned crock hung above the door.
Alternatively look for this bright blue house!
Inside you can hold crocodiles kept as “pets”. The beasts have their jaws tied shut and are kept in tiny cages. For the privilege of holding these animals you must tip the homeowner. Although this is a tacky cultural practice, many western tourists freely indulge and if that is your thing go for it. Instead I ordered a hot hibiscus drink in the den.
The reason that crocodiles are kept her is that they are a cultural practice, crocodiles having long been used in Nubian homes. Kept as guard dog to deter theft they are now a tool for entertaining tourists. I was told in the home that the practical reason that the entrance of the home is filled with sand was to check for signs of snakes and other animals entering the house. As such you will notice that many Nubian homes in this village have retained this piece of old tradition.
Near the departing boat launch, you will find a massive outdoor bazzar selling Nubian goods such as carpers, fruits, spices, masks, peanuts, ornamental weapons, etc…
Although Nubian goods can be found at the Aswan souk, you will find a great variety of authentic items here. I’ve personally always liked the Nubian masks.
For those interested there are many peddlers selling camel rides. A word of warning the animals are poorly treated. If you want to help the locals it may be a better option to buy something from the merchants but to each their own. I found it particularly sad when I saw an adorable little kid beating one of the camels with a stick. If you wish to ride a camel but do so ethically, Egypt is not a great country for this. In my experience though, the Bedouin in nearby Jordan do treat their animals much better.
At the end of your visit you can return to Aswan by boat via the massive flotilla of water taxi’s just waiting to depart.
I returned to the est bank of Aswan just as the sun was disappearing behind the west bank hills. What an incredible view!
Day Trips
Head Downstream on the Nile to Visit Ancient Temples
There are many important temples in the region between Luxor and Aswan, including Kom Ombo (the crocodile temple!), Esna and Edfu. Why not take a boat along the Nile to visit them. For more information click here.
Abu Simbel
The famed temple of Abu Simbel is located down a long stretch of military road south of Aswan. This temple dedicated to Ramsesses II, named the great, it is one of the pre-eminant monuments of ancient Egypt.
Conclusion
As previously mentioned Aswan, is the last bastion of civilization. Part desert, part tropical paradise it is the perfect mix of a border town and a cultured urban center. From modern works of engineering to ancient temples Aswan has it all! It is a city pulsing with history at every turn and yet it still feels like a place of the modern era – thriving despite its distance from Cairo or Alexandria.
