Amman – The Ammonite city of Philadelphia
Driving in capital of the OG Philadelphia is one difficult task. One of the oldest inhabited places in the world, Amman many have modernized but it is still a complex maze of 1-ways winding around and up/down a series of hills through the city center! This dynamism exhibited in Amman was not always so. The Hellenic city was but a puny Circassian village at the start of the 19th century but has been reinvented in recent history into the largest city in the Levant and one of the most prosperous metros of of the Middle East. Come see what Amman has to offer!
PS: I mention it further down in this post but I recommend staying at the Amman Pasha for a real funky Jordanian experience!
Table of Contents
- Geography
- History
- Exploring Amman
- Day Trips
- Conclusion
Geography
Located on the East Bank of the Jordan river plateau it is known for the three major wadi (water bearing valley canyons, that ) what run through it
History
Amman is an ancient city with a long history of settlement and abandonment. I have tried to summertime this for you the reader below!
Ammonite Era and Prehistory
Amman has been occupied since the the Neolithic Era, the last of the three divisions of the stone age.
In the 13th century BC, it was occupied by the Ammonites. The city grew rich due to its strategic location on the The King’s Highway, a strategic and historic roadway connection Syria, Anatolia and Mesopotamia to Egypt via Petra. Evidence indicated that these pagan people worshipped a deity called Moloch.
Classical Antiquity
Amman was conquered by Alexander the great on his march to Egypt and a new city was founded over the old. Later after his empire had split into pieces by his generals, Ptolemy II Philadelphus, the Hellenic ruler of Egypt, took the town and, named it “Philadelphia” – the City of Brotherly Love in Greek. Eventually municipal rule passed to the Tobiads, a Hellenic Jewish family but they were taken down by the Arab Nabataean Empire.
In 63 B.C the city, along with the rest of the Levant, fell to the Romans. Under their rule the city would grow to its greatest extent – a milestone that it would not again reach until the Modern Era. During this time the city joined the Decapolis League, an economic/cultural arrangements along with its Palestinian and Syrian contemporaries. Jordan itself was wealthy during this period and Roman ruins can be found throughout the northern extents of the young nation. At the split of the Roman Empire it belonged to the Byzantines (Eastern Roman Empire).
Islamic Era
The Muslim Arabs took the city where it underwent one of its last major changes. The Umayyads dynasty renamed it Amman and since the population already spoke Arabic, conversion to Islam was made easier by the governing authorities. The Umayyads built there Palace in Amman. They would soon be overthrown by the Abbasids.
Unfortunately the next centuries were unkind to the city and it was rendered uninhabited after several earthquakes hit the city. The Arabs continued to use Citadel Hill as a temporary refuge and was occupied briefly by the Crusader Kingdom of Jerusalem which they called Ahamant. The town was again abandoned by the Ayyubid period.
During the Ottoman Empire, As-Salt served as the administrative capital of Transjordan.
Modern Era
Amman began to be resettled in 1878 (during the tail end of the Ottoman Empire). At this time hundreds of Circassians, Pale skinned muslims from the Caucasus were resettled in Transjordan and Syria until 1910. They became the elite of Jordan and lived in the Roman ruins of Amman, slowly rebuilding the city from its ancient core.
During the First World war there was an Arab Revolt against the Ottoman Empire took place. As part of this action the, First and Second Battle of Amman took place. Amman had a strategic location along the Hejaz Railway into Arabia and was an important city to take. The Arab revolt was lead by the Hashemite family along with T.E Lawrence (Lawrence of Arabia) as an advisor. In 1921, the British made Abdullah I, a Hashemite Prince, the Emir of Transjardan. Instead of using As-Salt as a capital he decided to designate Amman. In the 1930’s the city was measured in the 10’s of thousands but after the 1948 Arab–Israeli War and the Six-Day War Palestinians would poor in from the lost territories of Transjordan in the West Bank. The new immigrants would become the East Bankers, becoming the majority, outnumbering the old Circasian Elite. Hence Jordan is in fact in many ways the first Palestinian Arab state.
Against all odds the Hashemites have come out of the 20th century chaos stronger. It is not unusual to see their portraits up in Jordanian shops.
In 1970, Amman was the location of a conflict between the Palestine Liberation Organization (PLO) and the Jordanian Army known as Black September. The Jordanian Army won this conflict in 1971, and the the PLO were expelled to Lebanon. Today a great divide exist between East Bankers and the Palestinian Elite.
In recent years Amman has experienced true political stability and with this real economic and progressive change has happens.
Exploring Amman
Although Amman dates back to antiquity, it was only revived during the 19th century as such most of its attractions are clustered around the historic core of Roman/Greek ruins where a typical Middle Eastern town center developed.
Old Amman (Al Madinah)
The heart of the Roman city, Al Madinah, encompasses all of Amman’s most important sights including the citadel and the roman ruins in the multi pronged valley below.
The Citadel
This open air museum is the perfect companion to the Archeological Museum located on site and the Jordan Museum discussed later in this post. This site has been used for public and defenses purposes since the very beginnings of the city and in considered to be among the oldest inhabited places in the world. As such you will find traces of all the great powers in one place!
At the state of the complex, you will find stone ledgers giving you a timeline of Amman’s three names and the important events corresponding with the city during this era. They are; Rabbatt-Ammon (Ammonite), Philadelphia (Greeko-Roman) and Amman (Islamic Era).
I tried to simplify the history section earlier but Evidence indicates that the citadel was occupied by the Assyrians (8th century BC), the Babylonians (6th century BC), the Ptolemies, the Seleucids (3rd century BC), Romans (1st century BC), Byzantines (3rd century AD) and the Umayyads (7th century AD).
Parking and the Ammonite Section
It is very to park easy to park on site, with a large modern parking facility having been constructed on site. From here you will get a great view of the Roman Theater below. You will find the ruins of the Ammonite palace closer to the parking lot.
Grekko-Roman Acropolis and Ayyubid Tower
The most iconic sight on citadel hill is that of the ruined Temple of Hercules, some of its majestic pillars still stand perched on the old Greek acropolis. Not far from it is the ruined tombs of the Ciudadela Cementery.
The square, colonnaded building was constructed during the reign of the Roman Governor of Arabia Geminius Marcianus sometime between 162-166 A.D, around the same time as the Roman theater. At one time a giant 12 meter statue of Hercules stood inside but today you will only find the oversized fragments of three finger and an elbow. South of the structure you will find the remains of a Ayyubid era Medieval Watchtower.
If you get to observe the citadel from far at night, the Temple of Heracles is spectacularly lit up!
Byzantine Occupation
Nearby, to the north-east of the temple you will find the ruins of a 6th century Byzantine church as well as an early bronze age cave.
Archeology Museum
On the opposite side, to the north-west you will find the archeology museum, established in 1951, displaying artifacts found on the site as well as many other sites in Jordan. The small stature of the stone museum is deceiving, inside you will find a wide collection of items including many statue, coins and suits of armor. Since Jordan one occupied large parts of the west bank and Jerusalem this building once held some of the Dead Sea Scrolls, including the only copper scroll. The rest are in Isreali museums. These items are now on displayed Jordan Museum (wich you should do after the citadel!), along with the Ain Ghazal statues, some of the oldest in existence.
From the citadel you will get also get a view of the modern Jabal Amman hilltop neighborhood hosting the wold famous Rainbow Street!
Islamic Califates
At the center of the site you will find the second most iconic building on the site, the ruins of the Umayyad Palace, an exquisite building.
This structure was built during the first half of the 8th century, and the monumental gateway has been brought back to life with a restored dome known as the “kiosk”. This inside of this structure exhibits fine details and is a rare look at early Islamic civilization.
At the northern end of the site you will find the Umayyad Audience Hall and Throne Room.
On the site you will find the ruined Umayyad Baths and ancient cisterns used to service the site!
To the south you will find a flat surface that served as a market square.
Finally you will have a structure called the Gates of Amon, the old portal to the citadel palace.
Al Madinah Valley (Residential Old Town)
Where to Stay? (Amman Pasha)
I stayed in a unique hotel in old Amman, the Amman Pasha. It is one of the few hotels in old Amman, as many international brands have set up shop in the suburbs. Although it is a hotel, it really has a hostel vibe as witnessed by the group of young people singing in the hotel bar at the time of my arrival!
This hotel also has as second bar, located on the rooftop with fantiastic view of the Roman theater! Most of my pictures were taken from this vantage point. The hotel offers cultural activities such as cooking classes and day trips. It is also filled to the brim with various animals such as birds, Rabits and apparently chipmunks (although it did not see the latter)!
Roman Theater and Odeon
Although it is best seen from afar, this theater also offers spectacular views of the city and citadel from it seating era. At the base of the structure, you will find a a small Odeon as well as the Museum of Popular Traditions. The 6000 seat theater is built into the Jabal Al-Joufah, a hill opposite to the citadel and this is considered to focal point of old Amman. Like everything else from the Roman era it dates from the 2nd century AD.
Roman Nymphaeum
Although Amman’s pollution has degraded the stone, the Nymphaeum is still a sight to see! Built in the 2nd century AD, these public fountains were popular throughout the empire. This sight was known for its large pool at its center.
Grand Husseini Mosque
The Grand Husseini Mosque, built in 1924 is an important part of the downtown landscape. The twin minarets are prominent in the skyline.
The Jordan Museum
Located in the valley south of Al Abdali, you will find the Jordan Museum, so often referred to in this post. A new construction it is built beside an old mosque and has a train car displayed in the front yard. This is a must see museum, perfect for a rainy day. It displays items from all across Jordan. AS mentioned previously the museum holds the prized items of the old Archeological museum including some of the Dead Sea Scrolls along with the Ain Ghazal statues, some of the oldest in existence.
Raghadan Palace
Located on a hill east of the citadel , Raghadan is home to the Jordanian Royal Family. The beautiful 1926 building was purchased by King Abdullah I and has remained part of the family.
Jabal Amman
Rainbow Street
The most cosmopolitan street in the Middle East, Rainbow is a great place to experience Jordanian cafe nightlife.
Originally named Abu Bakr al Siddiq street, it is representative of a more multi-ethnic Jordan with churches and mosques in prominent places. You will also find a cinema!
Although I like the vibe of the street, it is still not as woman friendly as you would think (my lady readers beware)! Amman may be one of the more liberal cities in the middle east but catcalls and pervy looks may still be expected at night, although to a lesser extent than most places.
This part of the city is popular with foreigners and many native or foreign no’s operating in Jordan or nearby in other middle eastern nations have their headquarters in the district. You will also find some embassies. You will also find many buildings important to Jordanian history, including the al-Mufti House a 1920’s house belonging to the city’s former Circassian Mayor and Prime Minister Sa’id al-Mufti, the residence of King Talal (Teta Alice’s House), and the home of a former military commander and Prime Minister Zaid ibn Shaker.
You will also find the Souk Jara a local market that runs from 10am to 2am, the night market is not to be missed!
Finally the views of the city are fantastic from here as well! There’s something about the hills!
Jabal Al Lweibdeh
This upscale neighborhood of Amman is home to much of the nations public public functions. You will find the Jordan National Gallery of Fine Arts, as well as the parliament buildings and the Jordanian Palace of Justice. You will also find a massive modern shopping mall (abdali mall) as well as the Coptic Cathedral and the King Abdullah I Mosque, a modern yet beautiful building with a distinctive blue roof.
One of my favourite buildings in this district is another church, that of the Greek Orthodox Cathedral of Annunciation!
Suburbs
There is little to do in the suburbs of Amman. One recommendation I could give is to visit The Royal Automobile Museum. This museum hosts a collection of cars dating back to those collected by Hussein bin Ali (the father of Abullah I the first king of Jordan) in 1916. In the park that the museum is located in you will find the castle like King Hussein Mosque, a 1924 building constructed over a 640A.D mosque ruin.
Day Trips
Madaba and Mt Nebo
Welcome to Christian Jordan! Madaba is the principle christian center of Jordan and boast the famous map of the same name, a complex mosaic of the holy land. Nearby Mt. Nebo is where Moses looked down on the holy land and drew his last breath. Today the viewpoint is home to a monastery with a museum displaying ruins and ancient frescoes! Make sure to stock up on booze here! Only Christians can sell it in Jordan and it will run you a premium at Petra!
Read more about both sites in my latest blog post here!
Jerash
This ancient city was once known as Gerasa, would be the most famous attraction in the country if it were not for Petra! The massive greco-roman ruins are unmatched in scope and size throughout Jordan. To learn more read my post here.
The Dead Sea
Honesty, I didn’t expect the Dead Sea to be as cool as it was. Even in late February the water was warm enough to swim and there is nothing as thrilling as being completely buoyant! Located but a short drive from the capital you can learn more about this salty paradise here!
Ajloun Castle
This Islamic castle was built by the great Islamic commander Saladin as a counter to the increasing proliferation of Crusader strictures on both sides of the Jordan. To read more about Saladin’s rock click here.
As-Salt
This agricultural town on the road between Amman and Jerusalem is known for its Ottoman era stone architecture.
Bethel of Jesus and the Jordan River
On the Jordan River you will find what is thought to be the baptismal site of Jesus. The lush valley is home to many interesting ancient archaeological sites and vegetation.
Desert Castle Loop
This loop though the eastern deserts is a popular one with tourist. Although many of these are not actual castles, but walled caravansarai they are well worth a look a typical itinerary can include any of the following Qasr al Mashatta, Qasr al kharaba, Quseir’ Amra, Al Azrark Caslte and Hammam As-Sarah although one can also hit Qasr Tuba further to the south. Whereas most are the caravan stops, the Mamman is an ancient bath that almost looks fortified and Al Azrark is an actual castle and is known for its lush nature reserve in the middle of the desert. The desert castles are renowned for their connection to the famed T.E Lawrence aka “Lawrence of Arabia”.
Quasr Al Abed
Located in the hills 17km’s west of Amman, this former palace complex dates from around 200 BC. There is still much left of it and is worth a look if you have some extra time or are heading towards Madaba!
Conclusion
Amman is a great city to use as a hub to explore an interested and underrated country. Although mostly a modern city, it has a lot to offer in terms of of exhilarating day trips making it a perfect backpackers base. It is also fairly liberal for a middle eastern city, so that you many have the occasional night out!
