Alexandria – The City of Alexander and The Soul of Hellenic Egypt
Once one of the most resplendishing cities in the Mediterranean, home to two of the seven wonders and a a jewel of Hellenic culture, Alexandria, city of the Conqueror, is but a beaten down shadow of its former self. It is clear from the decaying concrete buildings and the crumbling Napoleonic era architecture that the city has suffered a long and difficult decline. The Greeks and the Jews that once animated its streets along with the foreign french are gone, forcibly removed by Nasser and from the condition of the archaeological sites it is clear that the governments money is not being put into the restoration of the city’s cultural heritage. One could almost conclude that it is demolition by neglect, similar to Cairo, it is the slow erosion of the country’s old towns as the rich government moneyed class has moved to perfectly manicured suburbs away from the rif-raf they are supposed to represent.
But destroyed? That seems a little extreme to me! From massive earthquakes, military invasions and fires, Alexandria has always found a way to come back stronger. It is clear that the city’s resilience comes from its people. Unlike the Cairenes, Alaxandrians, like most port people, exhibit a more liberal attitude than anywhere in the nation. During the Arab spring they protected their library and during my visit they were more than willing to talk with me. This is a no-hassle city and people here are less pushy and in your face than elsewhere in the country. One young man I chatted with, on vacation from Cairo wanted to tell me how Alexandria was a personal favourite of his and his smile told me he was sincere.
Table of Contents
- Geography
- A Brief History of Alexandria
- Exploring the City
- Conclusion
Geography
Built on former sandbar on the western edge of the Nile Delta, Alexandria is well positioned as the country’s primary shipping port. The Mediterranean climate is a big draw to the city and there is something relaxing about watching the waves crash into the promenade breakwater.
A Brief History of Alexandria
As all great cities, Alexandria has a long and complex history. I have attempted to give you a brief overview of the city but I encourage you to dig deeper. There is much to know about the city of Greeks.
Hellenic Egypt
Although the site on which Alexandria is built on has been occupied since the Old Kingdom, a city would not develop until the arrival of Alexander the Great in 331 BC. This new city would be a link to the Greek Ruling elite and the Nile valley, a grand harbour was built out of the Pharos island. Alexander would leave a few months later and never return alive. After his death in 323BC, the Alexandrian empire collapsed, split apart by his generals. One of these men Ptolemy Lagides, would flee to Egypt with his body. In 305 BC, Ptolemy declared himself the Pharaoh of Egypt this becoming Ptolemy I Soter (“Savior”). At first the capital of Ptolemaic Egypt was the ancient city of Memphis but he would more the capital to Alexandria. Much of the city was constructed by him. The city grew wealthy, since Alexander had destroyed the Lebanese city of Tyre. It is around this time that Alexandria would become one of the great Jewish metros of the world. This city was considered to be on par with Rome and hosted two of the Ancient Wonders of the world; The Great Library and The Lighthouse of Alexandria. The Greek rulers merged their cultures with that of the ancient Egyptian (such as adopting the Pharaonic dress) in order to control the province.
Roman Antiquity
We all know the tragic story of Cleopatra, the last ruler of the Ptolemeic dynasty Cleopatra. Having made the wrong choice in the Civil War Between Octavian and Marc Anthony, the whole of Egypt fell to the Romans. It is in Alexandria that Cleopatra would take her own life, a fitting end to a dynasty so closely attached to one city. Under Roman rule (Caligula) fighting would erupt between the Jews and the Romans, leading to mass bloodshed.
The city was greatly damaged during the Kitos War, when again fighting erupted between the Jews and Romans, this meant that the city was reconstructed by emperor Hadrian. In 215 A.D, the city was decimated by Caracalla, after the citizens insulted him. A cruel and man he executed the towns citizens that were young and of arms bearing age. The final blow was on 21 July 365, when Alexandria was devastated by the Create Earthquake of that year. The city was overcome by a tsunami and would only make a tepid recovery. George of Cappadocia, the roman bishop of Alexandria would persecute both Orthodox and Copt alike. He was killed by an Alexandrian mob and it was a well deserved death.
Byzantine Possession and Islamic Caliphates
In 390 A.D, after the split of the Roman Empire, the city would pass under the dominion of the Eastern Roman Empire (the Byzantines). The Greek Empire needed the Hellenic city to control the foreign nation. The breadbasket of the empire, Egypt was wheat producing machine and an important naval base. The Byzantine era was turbulent both economically and socially for the city. Hypatia, a mathematician and philosopher was lynched by a radical Christian mob and in 415A.D the Jews of the city were expulsed by of Saint Cyril
The Christians of Egypt at this time were Coptic, an Orthodox branch with some differences characteristics and teaching from the Christianity practised at Constantinople. The Byzantines could be cruel and their persecution of the Copts created a resentment that led to the embracing of foreign powers such as the Arabs. In 615 the city was captured by the Sassanid Persians and it was briefly recaptured by the Byzantines in 629. The Muslims would not be dissuaded, in 642 A.D was captured by the Arabs and they would move the capital of Egypt relocates from Alexandria to Fustat (today part of Cairo), their new planned Arab/Muslim capital. It was captured for a last time by the Byzantines in 645. Unfortunately for the Copts they were good subjects and did not fight back. Within a few generations the Muslim community in Egypt grew and they were on the receiving end of new persecutions.
The Islamic era was one of decline. The famous lighthouse was demolished by an earthquake in 1323 (and there was a previous devastating earthquake in 1303). Fortunately the Jews were allowed to return during this period and the community flourished once again. Several Arab dynasties governed the city including among others the Umayyads, the Abbasid and the Mamlucks. In 1517 the city was captured by the Ottoman Turks, signalling a coup de gras. They would move the principle port of the cit of Rosetta (Rashid today). By the time the French had arrived, Alexandria had redhead its Nadir, one of the world’s greatest cities was but a puny town of 8000.
Colonial Era
In 1798, Napoleon Bonaparte would add the city to the French colonial empire, giving the city a much needed boost. Alexandria would be at the forefront of a colonial power struggle that would required great investments in the Egyptian territories. In 1801, Battle of Alexandria took place and the city would fall to the British.
After the revolutionary war the city would become part of the kingdom of Muhammad Ali and his merry band of Albanian mercenaries. Originally brought to Egypt to help the Ottoman Sultan they soon turned on the week willed man and made Egypt their own. During this time Alexandria was over 20% foreign born, may from France and Greece. The Khedive (Egyptian sultan) has turned to Europe to modernize the country and foreigners made Alexandria their home. In 1882, riots broke out attacking those foreigners and their property. The French and British navies reacted to protect their citizens and the city was bombarded and subsequently taken by the British and taken. The city as well as the rest of the country became part of the Empire.
Both Ali Pasha and the Brits would invest heavily in the city and its infrastructure. Ali would build the Mahmoudiyah Canal to supply the city with freshwater and would construct a new dockyard and arsenal. The Luxor Obelisk (from Luxor) stolen from Egypt and brought to Paris were shipped through Alexandria (as well as Cleopatra’s Needles being shipped to New York). By 1856 the Cairo-Alexandria railway began operating. Under British rule the city was particularly cosmopolitan. A stock market was established as well as gas lighting, museum and an electric tram system. Furthermore several newspapers were based in the city.
During the Second World War, Alexandria was the largest base of the British fleet and an important base for the British fight for North America. The pivotal Second Battle of El Alamein took place nearby!
Nationalistic and Modern Egypt
After the Suez Crisis in 1956, the city was hit by a nationalist Arab rage. All foreigners were expelled, including the Jewish community. Since then Alexandria was fallen into disrepair, lacking in government investment or foreign capital.
*Note* Although Nazer is a repugnant man responsible for the economic decline of Egypt, you should not criticize him in public. The Egyptian public is rather still in love with this xenophobic fool.
Exploring the City
La Corniche
The main attraction in Alexandria is of course the sea. La Corniche is waterfront promenade extending from the grand harbour, to the eastern extent of the waterfront
The Corniche is known for its beautiful french styled colonial buildings in the section adjoining the old harbour. As you go east you will be faced with more and more modern condos.
Enjoy the sound of the powerful waves crashing down on the piers.
Have fresh seafood on the Corniche.
This one is pretty self explanatory!
Make sure to get a view of the waterfront from wherever you eat from.
Stanley Bridge
This iconic construction has a total length of 400 meters with 6 spans. Built in the 1990’s it is called the Lover’s Bridge. Come here for a romantic picture with your spouse, gf, dog, bestie or fuck it just by yourself!
Montaza Palace and Tea Island
Located in the far eastern extents of the city, this area is a green oasis in a concrete jungle. built in 1892 by Khedive Abbas II, the fantastic gardens that surround it were added later. President (and Nobel laureate) Anwar El-Sadat renovated the palace as an official presidential residence. The building as you see today is mostly a result of the work done in 1932. There is a massive garden around the palace and is a great place to spend an afternoon.
On the east side of the complex you will find connected to the mainland by the El Montaza Bridge. Closed at the time of my visit, I feel like I should mention it as (as of 2020) it has reopened for the first time in 84 years. The rocky island formation offers a great view of the palace from the waterfront. The most important attraction is the beautiful neoclassical tea house of King Farouk. The manicured island has its own beach and a massive public beach to the east of it.
Bibliotheca Alexandrina
Not nearly as cool as the ancient library of antiquity, this new one was completed in 2002. It started with a donation of 500 000 books from the National Library of France and can hold up to 8 million.
Citadel of Qaitbay and Pharos Island Diving
Where has the Pharos gone? The island of the famous lighthouse, one of the seven wonders of the world, is still here but was we learned earlier an earthquake sent it tumbling into the sea. It was restored bu the Arabs but again destroyed again in after an 11th century earthquake, thereafter what was left was used as a watchtower. Most of the original lighthouse can now be found under the sea. If you have your diving license it can be worth your while to disappear under the sea to see what is left.
In 1480 AD, the Mameluke Sultanate of Egypt was in trouble. The Ottomans were at the door. Al-Ashraf Qaitbay, the sultan, fortified the island as part of his coastal defensive edifices against the Turks and built a mosque inside the fortress. The was invaluable to the defence of the city until 1882 when it was bombed by the British. After that it fell into abandon before its eventual restoration. Today you can visit the inside and witness its fine stone and masonry work.
Downtown and Anfoushi
Downtown and the Anfooushi district are located just behind the Corniche. Here you will find an excellent stock of decaying colonial era architecture .
Greco-Roman Museum
Located on the north end of downtown, not far from El miri hospital, this museum hosts much of Alexandria’s heritage collection – including mummies and Hellenic pieces.
Museum of Fine Arts
Established in 1904, its collection started with 210 pieces from international artists. Although the original building was destroyed in WW2, it was reestablished in the 1950’s for your enjoyment.
Experience the City’s Religious architecture
Islamic Mosques
The are plenty of prominent mosques in Alexandria, the most famous of which is the 13th century Sidi Abo El Abbas El Morsi Mosque. Located in Anfoushi, an old neighbourhood near the citadel. This mosque is home to a mausoleum to Islamic saint Abul Abbas al-Mursi, from Andalusia (Spain)
Jewish Synagogues
Unfortunately the age old Jewish community of Alexandria, yet the Eliyahu Hanavi Synagogue in the middle of the downtown district stands as a reminder of their presence. The first synagogue was damaged during the French Invasion and rebuilt in 1850. I could not enter the building as it was under reconstruction (completed in 1920!). I consider it to be the finest building in the city.
Christian Churches
The Gothic-Byzantine styled Cathedral of Evangelismos is the main base for the city’s once important Greek community. Located in the north end of the city, the stunning building dates from 1856. It is home to the Orthodox Patriarchate of Alexandria and All Africa!
The Copts on the other hand have their base at Saint Mark’s. This church is important to the christian community as it was originally founded by Mark the Evangelist himself and was the site of his body and relics. St. MArk was said to have been the first bishop of Alexandria and was killed in 68A.D after the feast of Serapis. In 828, the relics were stolen from the church by the scummy Venetian merchants and taken to Venice. A few relics were returned from Italy in the 20th century. The church is fairly modern due to its destruction during crusades, the french invasion, a 1950’s expansion and even an Islamic bombing in 2017.
Step off the Train and Visit the Roman Amphitheatre Ruins
The beautiful train station in Alexandria, is a gem but as soon as you step off its platform you will be even more amazed. To the south of the station you will find the ruins of an old Roman public space. Discovered in the 60’s the dig was excavated and investigated by the Greko-Roman museum and the Polish Mission to Egypt. Built in the 4th century B.C it was used until the 7th – seeing use during the Roman, the Byzantine, and the Early Islamic era’s. There were 600 seats and you can walk though the complex as well as an excavated colonnaded street.
The Egyptian Chamber of Commerce Building
One of many beautiful buildings in Alexandria, I wanted to mention it as it looks like an old Greek temple replica!
El Gondy El Maghool Square
The heart of old Alexandria, this square is known for its stunning colonial architecture. At its northern end by the Corniche you will find the beautiful tomb of the unknown soldier Off to the side of this square you will find some of Alexandria’s only alcohol bars, including the Spit Fire Bar. You will also find rooftop bars at historic hotels such as the Skyroof at Windsor Palace Hotel.
At the southern end of the square is a statue of Mohamed Ali Pasha, the fierce Albanian mercenary that took control of Egypt and began to modernize it.
Alexandria National Museum
Located to the north west of the downtown, the museum is housed in a 1926 Italianate styled building that used to be home to the United States consulate.
South Alexandria
Many of the remaining greek and roman are found in the southern edge of Alexandria.
Serapeum and Pompey’s Pillar
This famous pillar is named after Pompey but was actually built for the Roman Emperor Diocletian, who helped suppress a local revolt. It once featured the emperor, fully armored, at the top of the column. The pillar was built over the Temple Serapis, a Ptolemaic creation it represented a greco-egyptian god. Serapis was the male counterpart of Isis in the new Greek Egypt (poor Osiris!). The pillar dates from 284 A.D and beside it you will find sphinxes, an odd sight beside a Greek Corinthian. The column was the largest of its kind outside Constantinople and Rome.
You can walk around the complex, though the ruins of the Serapis. The site is well maintained but additional signage could be used to better interpret the sight.
Catacombs of Kom el Shoqafa
This is the coolest attraction in Alexandria. Located not far from the Serapis, in a run down shanty of a neighbourhood, Kom El Shoqafa is a marvel.
When you enter, many items from inside the Greco-Roman tombs have been left as outdoor displays in the courtyard.
The name Kom El Shoqafa, meas the Mound of Shards. This is readily apparent by the abundance of archaeological debris on site. This is due to the fact the area used to contain a mound of terracotta shards left by those visiting the tombs. The terracotta objects were mostly clay amphorae, plates and jars remaining from those who would bring food and wine for their consumption during the visit. Basically an ancient garbage heap!
The tombs were used until the fourth century A.D until they fell into disuse. They were rediscovered in the 1960’s.
The complex will take you down a flight of stairs to 100 ft underground.
There are 3 levels to the complex but one of these is now under water.
The complex dates from the second century A.D and include a unique mix of Roman, Greek and Egyptian motifs. It was originally meant for one family but expanded much beyond this scope for reasons unknown.
Three sarcophagi have been found, along with other many other human and animal remains in simpler tombs. In the main gallery (Principal tomb chamber) three sarcophagus can be found. In the case of the inner tomb the winged sun disks (Egyptian symbol) headline the top relief. Flanked on both side of this tomb are shields are carried by Agathodaemon in the form of a snake (Greek symbol). The snake hold a Roman Caduceus and a Greek Thyrsus as well as the Egyptian Pschent. The snakes are topped by a previously mentioned shield showing a Medusa
The detailing of the secondary tombs is rather elaborate and Egyptian influences can most surely be seen! The pillars share the traditional papyrus crowns (aw well as the lotus) as other necropolises of ancient Egypt and the gods, such as the cow Hathor can be seen on the walls.
There are simper tombs as well cut like boxes into the solid stone walls of the tomb. While simple lay down cut out have been created in the bottom of the stone slabs.
Some narrow unfinished passages lead to unfinished tombs. There are also some tombs with the original paint.
The most strange and elaborate part of all this is a passage with vaulted masonry and high ceilings. This was completed during the roman empire and differs complexly from the cramped construction of yore.
These are the catacombs/Hall of Caracalla, which contains the bones of the roman emperor Caracalla‘s horses. These tombs date from 215 AD.
Conclusion
Come see why Alexandria is a favorite of many Egyptian families. Beyond the Hellenic ruins there is a soul to this place that cannot be crushed, no matter how hard it seems the forces of regressivism try to pull at it. Alexandria may the a city of the past but in my opinion it is also Egypt key to the future should it choose to invest in it.
