Al-Karak and Montréal Castle (Shobak) – Two Imposing Crusader Strongholds of the Oultrejourdain
On the East Bank of the Jordan river, the historic lordship of Oultrejourdain is often neglected as a crusader stronghold. The region’s imposing fortresses are overshadowed by imposing citadels an castles at Tripoli in Lebanon, Acre (Akko) in Isreal or the Krack des Chevalier in Syria. Yet in Jordan stand two of the most impressive crusader castles, that of Montréal and Al-Karak.
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Oultrejourdain
This Crusader Kingdom from the Old French for “beyond the Jordan”, was also called the called Lordship of Montreal at one time or even the Transjordan.. Centering on the old kingdoms of Edom and Moab to the East of the Jordan River and the Dead Sea. It was considered to be one of the four Vassals of the Kingdom of Jerusalem and its capital was the city of Al-Karak. The kingdom lied on the prosperous trade route from Egypt to the rich lands of Syria called the The King’s Highway as well as the well known pilgrimage route to Mecca.
Al-Karak
The town of Al-Karak is built on a triangular plateau, with the castle at its narrow southern tip. Thick stone walls surround the town offering vantage points into the hill valleys in all directions at its feat.
Driving up to the castle via narrow roads is a task in a half, but there is parking at the top near the caslte as a consolation price!
From the top you will be privy to one hell of a view of the Jordanian countryside.
To access the site, you must buy tickets – or use your free entry with the Jordan Pass and cross over the moat at the southern tip of the town.
Originally part of the Moabite Kingdom, it was referred to as Qer Harreseth or Kir of Moab in the Bible. I for one only knew about the town due to its medieval history and as such I was clearly impressed with just how old the town actually was. The city had a brief stint with the Assyrian Empire and the Arameans people. It continued to be of importance during the Hellenistic Period and is considered to have the oldest Christian communities in the world, dating as early as the 1st century AD. The city then fell the Nabateans before the Roman Empire in 105 AD. Finally ending up with the Byzantine Empire during the split of Rome.
After an occupation by Arab armies it was captured by the Crusader Kingdom of Jerusalem and gifted to the Lordship of Oultrejourdain where a castle was constructed in 1132. Called The Stone of the Desert it is what you see in Karak today. This castle held out against Saladin for over a year but surrendered in 1188.
After falling to the Mamlucks it became an important base to extend their Egyptian holdings. The town continued to hold its importance during the Ottoman Era, case in point it was targeted by the Arab Revolt during the First World War. After the war it ended up in British Hands before being transferred to the newly formed emirate of Transjordan.
After walking through the gates, you will come across a spot where west wall opens up on the valley below.
This view can be accessed through a massive ramp heading up wards to the upper levels of the complex. This ramp separates the lower court from the rest of the complex.
At the very southern tip you will find the upper castle and its iconic multi level arches.
It is divided from the rest of the complex by a deep trench.
From the slits in the tower walls you will have great sight lines to fell your enemies with your bow and arrows.
On the east side of the complex you will get a look at the long road into town carved into the ravine like Wadi.
One of my favourite parts of the complex is the endless vaulted passageways that take you ever deeper into the belly of the beast.
It seems like there is a new passageway emerging from beneath just about everywhere you step.
These passageways link up all the important areas of the castle including the towers.
The final central corridor is the most impressive of all of them.
The town of Al-Karak itself does have a few interesting stone buildings but the charm it could have was spoiled to a bad experience with locals, the only place I had experienced this in Jordan and the worst following/harassment I had experienced since Egypt. If you have the chance, stop off at the Al-Hameed mosque near the plaza just north of the fortress.
In 2016 there was a terrorist attack in which at least 19 people were killed, yet the town does not feel unsafe and there is a visible police presence. The area closest to the castle is very safe and the vendors polite. I would love to come back in a few years and see how far it has come.
That being said the workers at the castle were delightful and wanted to show you around. With a little bit more work Al-Karak could be a wonderful attraction of a town.
Montréal (Shobak)
Unfortunately by the time I made it to this castle a thick fog had made its way in and hung over the fortifications. I could not see more than a few meter in front of me while driving. To compound things an unadvertised closure of the site in is place by the Jordanian government was put into place for construction on the access ramp – it was not advertised online. Nevertheless from the imposing silhouette I saw I am tempted to come back one day! This is why I am giving it a quick mention in this post.
Originally called le ‘Krak de Montreal”, it was founded by the Crusader King Baldwin I of Jerusalem in 1115 before passing to the Lordship of Oultrejordain in 1142. The name “Mont-Royal” refers to the king that ordered its construction. Although it may be hard to believe do to the arid – desert like – condition of the land, the Edom plain was a relatively fertile location during this time. Due to the lack of water a tunnel and cisterns system had to be constructed on site so that the defenders could avoid detection.
The castle is known for its relation to Raynald of Châtillon, arguably the most cruel man of the crusader camp. Raynald in his infinite wisdom (and arrogance) turned his source of income – tolls – into a liability. Instead of taxing or tolling the travellers he used the castle to attack the caravans that had previously been allowed to pass unharmed. This act was a provocation too far, and brought the attention of Ayyubid sultan Saladin, the great warrior of Islam. Saladin invaded the kingdom in 1187 and after capturing Jerusalem set his sight on Transjordan, namely Montreal. The siege of the was difficult, lasting over two years, and the castle could not be taken by force due to its steep hills before finally surrendering. For their bravery Saladin allowed the defenders to reunite with their families. Saladin had already received his revenge against Raynald at the Battle of Hattin after all, beheading him – the subject of Raynald is interesting and i encourage you to read up on him. In 1261, the Mamluk Sultan Baybars, stormed the castle for Egypt.
Today, the castle is but one of many a ruin among the land of Jordan. Seen as a smaller Karak it languished in a state of continual disrepair, hardly catching the tourists eye. Yet even on a fog filled afternoon the spectre of the castle still loomed large amidst the landscape.
Conclusion
Welcome to the Oultrejourdain, land of the Crusaders and their castles. A visit to either Karak or Montreal will garner you a better understanding of a lost world where castes and horses were worth more then gold and where surrender was a process of years and not days. This is Crusader Jordan!
