A Guide to the Valletta Metropolitan Area & St. Julian’s
The capital of Malta may be one of the youngest in Europe yet the fortified town, founded by the Knights of St. John as recently as the 16th century, has endured a storied life thus far. Today the city is as cosmopolitan as any in Europe, despite the heavy religious observance still practiced in the island. Valletta, like the rest of the island it is located on, is a land of contrasts.
- For more information on the island of Malta and the surrounding area read the parent post to Valletta here.
Table of Contents
Geography and Transportation
The Grand Harbour, the lifeline of the island and its connection to the outside word for so long, glistens in the sun. Being a Mediterranean archipelago, Malta is very much a beneficiary of the comforting cosmic rays! The large sea creature shaped bay stretches its tentacles out offering refuge to the many ships within its grasp. Valletta itself is built on a long thumb shaped peninsula at the center of the harbor. On the south side are the cities of Senglea and Birgu. Those cities are built on small “tentacles”, other peninsulas jutting into the harbour perpendicular to Valletta. On the other side of the harbour, to the north, you will find the town of Sliema/St Julian’s, the neighborhood the heart of the city’s nightlife. Much of the area around the Grand Harbor is now part of the Greater Valletta area and will be discussed in this post.
For a guide to the transportation around the island Malta please consult my parent post Malta (Island). For the region of Greater Valletta specifically, you should know that there are two ways getting around the island. The first is the robust bus system, this is this system that replaced both the trains and trams built by the British. You will find stops in every neighbourhood although bus routes can be quite overcrowded. A 2020 study will examine the possibility of building a cross island metro but no decision has been made so far. The other is the ferry system, allowing you to cross the harbour without having to go all the way around.
A Brief History
It was my surprise to find out that Valletta had not always been the principal city of Malta, although old by New World standards, it is a relatively young city in relation to other capitals cities of Europe. The old capital of the island, Mdina, is located on a hill inland, which makes sense when you are trying to shelter yourself from pirate raids but it does not when transitioning to a maritime power. When the Knights first came to the islands, they had a different vision for the nation. Veterans of the Holy Land (Acre) and Rhodes, they understood that the best strategy against the Turks was an offensive one. But with little manpower they would have to harness the sea instead, piracy, especially along the rich oriental trade routes. They made their capital Birgu, across the Barbour from where Valletta stands today. To man their ships they recruited heavily from the surrounding Maltese villages. This created a seismic shift in the archipelago’s history and the Grand Harbour would become the center of activity instead of the venerable old Mdina.
For a full history of Malta, see my post on Mdina and the rest of Malta here.
Knight of Malta, Fort St. Elmo and The Great Siege of Malta
The peninsula that the city stands on today is called Sceberras in Maltese. During the Aragonese occupation a tower was constructed on its tip. Things would begin to take shape when the knights moved their capital to the city of Birgu in the Grand Harbour. A city was planned to be constructed on the peninsula (1524) but funds lacking those plans were put on pause. Instead the Aragonese tower was replaced by what is called Fort St. Elmo (Italian for St. Erasmus), where St. Elmo is the patron Saint of Sailors for whom the previous tower was named after. This fort was completed in 1552 and for a long time was the only structure standing on the peninsula.
Tiring of the pesky Knights of Malta, the Ottoman Empire commenced the Great Siege of Malta in 1565. It was largely a response to the Knights, who had begun to fight back against the Ottomans by way harassing Turkish shipping including the capture of pilgrims heading towards Mecca (the Turkish pirates finally had a match!). The Great Siege of Malta is considered to be one of the greatest battles between the west and east, unfortunately overshadowed by the Siege of Vienna today, it is also considered one of the greatest upsets in Military history. At the center of this event was the Grand Harbor and its rudimentary defenses, only recently constructed upon by the Knights and very much so a work in progress. The overwhelming mass of fortifications you see today, only came after the siege when Europe poured cold hard cash into the defense of the islands to avert a Turkish return. The need for additional island defenses was underscored in 1551, when the nearby island Gozo was invaded and 5000 prisoners were taken, a number corresponding to most of the island’s population.
The Maltese conquest was precipitated by the successful raids on Turkish shipping, especially those of Romegas, the Order’s most notorious seafarer. Much of the manpower for these expeditions came from the Maltese in the nearby villages. Romegas captured several large merchant ships, including one that belonged to the Chief Eunuch. Of the prisoners he took, one can include the governor of Cairo, the governor of Alexandria, and the former nurse of Sultan Suleiman’s daughter – prizes that would offer steep ransoms. By 1564, the Sultan had made up his mind to end these humiliations.
At first the knights were chased from the Holy land, next Rhodes and finally sizing their donated base in Tripoli Libya, Malta – the stepping stone to Sicily and the rest of Europe was next. Led by a veteran of the Rhodes campaign, the energetic yet greying Grandmaster Jean Parisot De Valette, the knights had a secret weapon. Valletta had spies in Constantinople warning that invasion was imminent, as such the knights did what they could to reinforce Birgu, made provisions as well as called back knights. All there was left to do was to wait… Ignoring Mdina, the Turkish commander landed his troops at the Grand Harbor, the new center of power – it was said that his fleet was the largest armada since antiquity. In 1565 the Turks docked at Marsaxlokk and made their way six miles north towards the Grand Harbor, where he intended to move his fleet when the reduction of Fort St. Elmo was complete – the siege commenced.
The battle for the harbor started at the tip of the Sciberras peninsula where fort St. Elmo Guarded the harbor. Local Maltese and Knights defended the fortress, resupplying it at night by row boats across the harbor Chanel. After over a months of heavy fighting where over 6000 Turks were killed the fort gave way. The fort was but a heap of rubble with only a few of the Maltese men being able to swim across the harbour to safety – the knights armor being to heavy to float. Prisoners were all beheaded and their bodies strewn across the harbor as a stark message – comply or die! Undeterred, the knights did the same. The Turks then turned their attention to the twin cities of Senglea and Birgu which they bombarded mercilessly, breaching the walls several times before being repelled. The cities led by a 70 years old grandmaster refused to give in, reinforcing and shuffling cities by boat across the water when necessary. The key to both towns lay in their major fortifications in the castle of Birgu, the castle of St. Angelo that kept the Turkish navy at bay by way of its powerful cannons and on the landward side the fortress of St Michel in Senglia. By September reinforcements had arrived from Spain and Italy, the Turks were starving and disease ridden… the island was saved
This was the last major battle between a crusading order and the Islamic world, the end of an era. During the siege, charges and raids from the knights in Mdina helped distract the Turks and Gozo for its part provided much needed communications with the outside world.
For more information on the Great Siege of Malta, outside of Valletta, check out my article on the island of Malta here.
Founding of Valletta
With the defeat of the Ottomans, funds poured in for the defense for the island. The construction of Valletta, the long promised city, commenced. Led by the Grandmaster of the order Jean de Valette, he lived thought the most tumultuous period of the Order’s history, but would unfortunately not get to see his creation to fruition, passing in 1568. In 1566, the cornerstone was laid to the city by the Valette himself and it would take his name. It is said that elders watching the scene unfold muttered the following:
Jiġi żmien li fil-Wardija [l-Għolja Sciberras] kull xiber raba’ jiswa uqija“, and in English, “There will come a time when every piece of land on Sciberras Hill will be worth its weight in gold”)
Maltese Elders
Eventually, as the city developed, the knights would move their seat from Fort St Angelo in Birgu to their new Palace in Valletta.
PS: Valette is a fascinating figure of undaunted courage. Although he was a Knight with religious vows of celibacy, it is said that he had a secret lover on the island and that he even fathered children.
French and British Occupation
In 1798, the French entered Valletta due to an elaborate ruse. They stayed two years until pushed out by the British. Under British rule, a plan for modernizing the city by destroying the fortifications was luckily not enacted. Valletta grew rapidly under British rule and they in turn invested large sums of capital in the island, including the construction of a now defunct rail line to Mdina and in maritime installations.
A World at War and Independence
Prior to the Second World War the city was the hub of the British Mediterranean Fleet, yet the proximity to Italy forced its transfer to Egypt in 1929. Malta escaped the First World War unscathed but so much the second. The city, a strategic target, was blown apart and many buildings have not been rebuilt even to this day.
The heavy growth of the British years was sustained through independence, even more so as the country entered the Eurozone. In 2018, Valletta was designated a capital of Culture.
What to do in Valletta!
Random Ramblings
As with any city you can tell a lot about a place by something as simple as its street layout. When exploring the greater Valletta area you will notice a more rational, grid shape, street layout in the old town of Valletta and Floriana while Birgu and Senglea have unplanned windy old streets, indicative of what part of town was built before the other. A curious thing about Malta (and Valletta is no exception to this), is the abundance of fortifications and churches. The number is quite impressive even for Europe. From these one can tell that this island was populated by a war-like monastic order!
Old City of Valletta
From St. Julian’s, the location of my stay, the bus will drop you off at the Triton Fountain. This massive water fixture consists of three Tritons (the son of Poseidon) holding up was conceived in the 1950’s and is considered to be a national symbol. This statue is a fitting tribute to a maritime nation. The large plaza is considered to be a gathering place for national events and at night it is lit up tastefully. To the south of the plaza you will find Floriana and to the north the old town of Valletta.
When you cross over the deep moat and into the old town via the massive and thick fortifications, you will notice that they have remade this city gate in a strange modernist style. To the side you will notice one of the few eyesores in the old city, the modern blank wall that is the parliament building. Off to the side you will find a triangular staircase up to the fortress walls. Although modern, the staircase’s angular look is actually pretty. One of the first things you will see on your way in is the colonnade of the ruined Royal Opera House destroyed during the Second World War. It now hosts exterior performances.
Not far away to the south you will find the Auberge Castille, once the palace of the Knights of Malta before becoming the French command center and letter the British governors house. Since 1972, it has housed the prime minister of Malta.
One of the buildings found near the Auberge is the Our Lady of Victory Church. In 1568, De Valette died from a stroke before seeing the completion of his city and his body at first rested here, a fitting tribute as it was here that the first stone in the founding of Valletta was laid by the Grandmaster himself. His remains were transferred to the St. John’s Co-Cathedral when it was complete, to be placed among the tombs of other Grand Masters of the Knights of Malta.
Speaking of witch this large domed building is a symbol of Malta and dates from 1578. Apart from being the prominent dome of the city it is rather uninteresting architecturally on the outside, the inside however is one of the most stunning in Europe, with ornate detailing and stunning painted frescoes covering it. Just outside the cathedral square you will find the National Museum Of Archaeology, containing the Cippi of Melqart, one of two objects found in Malta used to translate the Punic Language.
Before you venture too far, keep an eye out for the distinctive Valletta balconies, a 17th century addition. The often brightly painted balconies are an architecturally distinct part of the capital landscape.
In the center of the city you will find George’s Square/Republic Square, just outside the picturesque Grandmaster’s courtyard, with its stunning interior public space.
One of my favorite parts of the fortifications is the Victoria Gate, a stunning interchange between pedestrianized old Valletta and the automobile world.
If looking for a brink, stop at the Bridge Bar here for a pint on the patio, the view of the harbor is fantastic.
The fortifications of Valletta are stunning. During the British occupation it was suggested that they demolish them in order to modernize the city. Luckily that plan did not pass and much of it has been turned into a public park. I recommend a visit to the Lower Barrakka Gardens, fashioned as a neoclassical temple with sculptures and exotic palms.
Just past the portico you will find a round rotunda with a tomb of an unknown soldier, fashioned as a second world war memorial. The view of the 17th century Fort Ricasoli from here is fantastic.
At the end of the peninsula you will find the famous Fort St. Elmo. As witnessed in the history section, this defensive structure has spent an eternity in the Maltese zeitgeist for its role in the Great Siege of Malta, although destroyed during the battle it was rebuilt. As such, it now hosts the National War Museum. From its rooftop you will have a wonderful view of the city and Mediterranean sea.
Note: the infamous Strait Street that British sailors would party at and look for prostitutes has cleaned up. That kind of rowdy nightlife has moved from Valletta proper to St. Julian’s.
Birgu, Senglea and Southern Harbor
The south side of the harbour is not as touristy as the old town but it is just as historic, the defence of both peninsulas has historically been part of the same system, sharing the same defensive lines. Come see where it all started for the Knights of Malta.
Birgu (Vittoriosa)
The short lived capital of Malta sits north of the matching peninsula of Senglea, it is here that the Knights made their desperate last stand during the siege of Malta, plugging the crumbling walls with men and rubble, hoping to withstand the enemy crunch. To enter the town you will pass though Notre Dame Gate, an imposing defensive structure. Two museums can be found in the first part of the city, a private history center called Bir Mula and the Malta at War Museum. Inside the main part of the city you will find architecture typical to that of Maltese towns, with stunning limestone buildings and colorful balconies just about everywhere, Buildings of note include the Inquisitors Palace Museum, a colonnaded building from the 16th century that served as the HQ for the Maltese inquisition, an event lasting over 200 years, and the armory. You will also find the old Norman House and many old Knights palaces such as l’Auberge de France. On the water, facing Senglia you will find the Malta Maritime Museum and to the north, before crossing a moat to the tip of the peninsula to Fort St. Angelo, you will find L’Auberge d’Italia another knight’s palace.
Fort St Angelo itself is a massive complex, this was ground zero for the siege of Malta and is where De Valletta was coordinating his forces. The complex is now a museum housing a complex network of tunnels and rooms, The building itself has fantastic harbour views of Valletta.
Senglea
The entrance to Senglea should be done though the historic St. Helen’s gate. Surprisingly, Senglea is just as pretty as Birgu, just a little bit more rundown, and just as worth a stop off. Check out the old fortification where the knights held back the Turks at Fort St. Micheal. Like Birgu, Senglea has an attractive waterfront promenade facing the former, that contains many restaurants.
PS: During the siege of Malta a massive metal chain was pulled between Senglea and Birgu to protect the knights harbor from Turkish sea borne assaults.
Other Attractions
The north shore of the south end contains a plethora of defensive structures facing the sea. I will list a few of these, Fort Ricasoli where you can visit the Malta Bay breakwater and lighthouse – this is the best of the bunch. Then you can visit Fort Rinella, an old British era artillery battery. Another is Fort St. Rocco or even Fort Leonardo further out. For those interested in Military history check out the Kalkara Naval Cemetery, a well maintained lot honouring commonwealth war dead.
Northern Harbor
Just to the North of the Grand Harbour you will find Sliema, along with much of the resort/nightlife spots.
Sliema and Ta’ Xbiex
Across the harbor from the old town of Valletta, this suburb mostly consists of modern construction with the occasional old church thrown into its midst. Many of Valletta’s mid-range resorts can be found here. There is little to do but to visit the parish churches which are surprisingly nice. A particularly great spot is Balluta Bay, where wonderful restaurants overlook a small beach, displaying the wonderful Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel at the far end. It is simply stunning! Other worthwhile attractions include Torri ta’ San Ġiljan (St. Julian’s Tower), a 17th century watchtower overlooking the Mediterranean, one of many used by the Knights as part of their system of defense.The rocks by Fort Tigné can also be a great place to catch a sunset on the harbor
In nearby Ta’Xbiex, you will find an older housing stock as well as many of Malta’s higher end marina’s. The best areas to explore include the bay area near the Msida church and the hill-like area around the St. John of the Cross Ta’ Xbiex parish church.
Manoel Island
In between the Sceberras peninsula and Silema, you will find a large diamond shaped island. This island sports a massive star shaped fort of the same name, of a rather generous size. It was constructed in the 18th century by António Manoel de Vilhena, the Grand Master of the order of St. John. Heavily bombed during the Second World War,restoration has come to the baroque styled gem. Inside the walls you will find the St. Anthony of Padua church but even more importantly from its plaza you will get the best panoramic view of Valletta’s old town!
St. Julian’s
St. Julian’s is better known a the party district, but is located unfortunately outside of the old city. It was also the location of my accommodation, Hostel Malti. The first thing I noticed when I arrived in the district was a sign for 72 shorts for 24.5 euro, an incredible price for so many drinks! Something that should be appealing for young party going people everywhere!
To be honest I chose Hostel Malti due to the fact that it had a magnificent rooftop patio and planned activities but also due to its proximity to the bar scene. Most of these establishments are located in the Paceville subdivision of St. Julian’s. Avoid the Casinos, they are probably mob run as the Russian underground has an iron grip on much of the underground activity in Malta (a surprisingly corrupt place). For bars, almost any will do, drinks are cheap and it is easy to meet people. They are mostly located between Paceville and church street. A particularly strong recommendation I can make is the Russian Karaoke Bar, although you will likely feel out of place here. Another is the Bellini bar, more of your traditional nightclub. Just a warning, I loved St. Julian’s but it can get loud out at night and bars are open til the early hours of the morning.
PS: I Strongly recommend a stay at this hostel if you like to party! As mentioned previously they have a fantastic rooftop bar and offer excursions. Furthermore they have a sister hostel offering a more quiet stay for those needing a rest.
Floriana and Southern Suburbs
Floriana
Just south of the old town of Valletta, past the Triton Fountain fountain found at the city gate, you will find Floriana, better known by its title Borgo Vilhen. This suburban extension of the old town was conceived as a fortified town in 1636, with the construction of the Florina lines, a series of fortifications outside of the old town of Valletta.
The main thoroughfare here leads to the St. Publius Church, a landmark basilica building from 1768. Behind the church you will find the Sarria Church, a more intimate venue and the Porte des Bombes, a double stone entry gate to the city.
Inside the city there are many things to do, you can walk the walls or explore the Down on the Argotti Botanic Gardens. The gem of the district is the Valletta Waterfront, hosting restaurants and bars in restored 17th century warehouses. The district sits right outside the city defenses and is host to the cruise port.
Tarxien (Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum and Temples)
Further south in the district of Tarxien, you will find the Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum. This stone temple dates from over 3000 B.C and is one of the best preserved of these ancient structures on the island chain, even more so then the stunning temples of Gozo. The UNESCO site contains a museum with access to a three leveled underground Neolithic stone age complex. The necropolis is an impressive religious monument / necropolis, with a surprisingly complex build for when it was constructed. Over 7000 remains have been found buried here. Since this attraction is so popular I recommend getting tickets in advance.
Not far from the Hypogeum you will find the Tarxien Temples, a series of four stone age temples. Surrounded by a stone wall for protection you will be able to see the true scale of the complex when inside.
Conclusion
A single visit to the city of Valletta is never enough! By the time you leave the island you will have already added half a dozen more things you would like to see upon return. During my time prowling the bars and hostels of the island, I encountered many expats and tourists who just kept returning year after year. One such guy in particular told me that he had been over 20 times! Keep this in mind, you will never do it all, even more so in such a special place like Malta, but you can always come back.
